Thursday 9 December 2010

Santa comes to town......

Well, it was great to be back in civilisation but after only a couple of days I was getting the 'wunderlust' and looking for my next trip. The plan was to stay in Miri till the 17th December then we are all going to Bali for Christmas. After that the only plans on the agenda are a few days diving in Sipidan, one of the best dive sites in the world.
My extended stay in South East Asia meant that I needed to get my post shipped out. Wayne and Vicky had kindly agreed to visit the house and post this, together with my dive computer, to one of Lesley's friends who was returning to Miri on Christmas day. That would give me the opportunity to pay any bills that were outstanding.
Before that I had another surprise. I was to be Santa Claus at the nursery party!
It was great fun. There were about 20 kids, all under 4 who I had to give Christmas presents with. This caused much amusement on Facebook, I can tell you.






During the evening we all went to a Malay birthday party. Very interesting, I met a loverly lady, Malaysian, who gave me some good ideas for trips within Borneo. I shall look into that as a potential for early January.

The weather in the UK continues to be very wintery. Some 2 ft of snow in Chesterfield which has brought the town to a standstill. I'm so pleased I am missing that.

Today I have been into school and listened to a group of P1 kids read. That is a great experience. While I have been doing this with Finlay for the past couple of months it was interesting and fascinating to hear kids, all under 5 years old reading in their second language, English. Very impressive. Later on in the morning I went to the school sports day to watch Ross play soccer. It had pissed it down again during the night so the pitch was a quagmire. Consequently Ross needed another pair of shoes for the afternoon.

As we will be away for Christmas day Lesley is going to cook a Christmas dinner on the 15th. It would be daft to take gifts to Bali because of the excess baggage so I need to get my finger out and get some Christmas shopping done at the weekend.

You can't get away from it!!!!! Ho Bloody Ho ......


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Location:Jalan Pantai,Miri,Malaysia

Monday 6 December 2010

Back where it all started.......

So here I am, sat in the departure lounge of KK airport, back where the Philippine adventure started. I have decided to fly back to Miri as an easy option.
Fuck the greenhouse gas issue, just for today, I'll make up for it God. Honest.

It's hard to believe it was just over a month ago when I turned around in the check-in line and saw Sabi's huge smile, Liz telling me she wanted a shit and Kipp (AKA Jack Reacher) kicking off because he was being told he couldn't get on the flight to Manila unless he had a return ticket.

The night in Manila and Benji's hospitality in the friendship hostel. The week in Boracay sitting on the beach till sunset listening to playlists drinking Caiparinia,
The fantastic lightning shows across the horizon, drinking ourselves silly till the early hours then playing 'Peter Pan' in the sea, naked, making the sea sparkle with the florescence .
Watching the ferry depart from Caticlan and deciding that we would go on it despite having no fucking idea where it went.

The trip around Mindoro, ''The Long Way Round' or was it 'The Wrong Way Round'. Roxas, a night to remember drinking cheap gin. The long and exciting jeepney ride to San Jose and the disgusting smell of dried fish. San Jose, 'show me the way to' and the schoolboy error of not believing the Rough Guide when it said there were no ATM's.

The ride to Sablayan and the stop off at the prison. Holding a guards fully loaded AK45 (for the uninitiated it's a automatic weapon). The natives in loincloths and their shocking teeth.

The terrible food in Sablayan (excepting the fried rice on the island of Panadan) and the fantastically friendly people.

The Jeepney ride to Alba and renting the fishing boat around the mountain range to White Beach and Puerto Galera. Arriving on the beach, jumping off the boot like Captain 'fuckin' Cooke laying claim to wherever it was.

The BBQ tea's, the Lady Boy shows, the Fire Dancers and when pissed, asking for (and getting) lessons in fire dancing.

The anxiety of running out of money and having to spend a day on pot noodles. Pouring very cheap gin into coconuts because beer would have been a luxury. The ecstasy of finding a money changer that accepted credit cards (for a ridiculous fee).

Having to go all the way back to Manila to get to Palawan.

Puerto Princessa and a great birthday. I don't think I'll ever get three live bands sing happy birthday on the same night again.

THE RIBS ! Glen an Amelia's hostel and his wonderful hospitality. The subterranean caves and a great day out at another of the Asian 8th wonders of the world

The trip by jeepney to El Nido and meeting up with Andrew and Jono. El Nido, the jewel of Palawan. The hostel, Mr John, The Gin and the Rum, the loaded gun on the last night.



Kev and Rosie and the nights of listening to travellers stories (and Kipp's stories again! and again and again.... Only jesting mate!!)

The day island hopping and the wonderful beaches and snorkelling. The harassment at the Art Cafe for using the Internet and not spending enough money.
The wonder of watching one man eat hundreds of hamburgers in one day.

Wondering at the speed of the Internet, praying that the connection on skype just so Kipp could get his flight changed because the consequences would have been more insomnia.

Saying 'Au Revoir' to Sabi and Liz' as they fly back to the cold of Europe.

And then there's the cargo ship..... 16 hours cooked up with 21 buffalo and god knows what else. The rusty nail (unfortunately, not of the cocktail type), the Sea Dive resort, spending time looking at the photos of Andrew and Jono's trip so far.

The hospital, the pain of my infection and the wonderful drug induced dreams. The irony that the cargo ship ticket and the cost of the drugs was exactly the same price as the 'luxury' boat.

It was a fantastic month. Thanks guys, I owe you one.......

Sabi, Liz, Kipp, Andrew, Jono, Kev and Rosie. If you can add anything let me know.


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Location:Koto Kinabulo Airport. Sabah. Malaysia

Saturday 4 December 2010

Back to Borneo

Coron was a loverly place, marred only by the fact that I spent the whole five days hobbling around with a foot injury caused by stepping on a bloody rusty nail on the cargo ship from El Nido to Coron.

Kipp, Jono, Andrew and myself spent the time at Sea Divers resort which, as the name suggests, is mostly frequented by divers.












All around Coron are wrecks of the Japanese fleet from World War two, very impressive they are too. I had intended to do a bit of diving but, due to my foot and advice from the doctor had to cancel. It was a shame as it sounds from the rest of the guys that I missed a treat. http://www.coronwrecks.com/history.htm



By the third day of doing nothing but taking anti biotics, eating and reading, I was starting to get a bit stir crazy. Kipp was intending to spend a couple more weeks in the Philippines and travel via Manila to Malpasa to dive with the thresher sharks.

Andrew and Jono who had a little more time were going to stop of at Boracay and sample the beautiful beaches.

I had decided that I would travel back to Koto Kinabolu via Manila on the 3rd. Spend a couple of nights in KK and then take the 10 hour bus journey from KK to Miri.

My flight on the 3rd left Coron at 10.35. At least the journey to the airport allowed me to see a little more of the county side. The islands we had visited on the five weeks tour had all been very different. Coron was no exception. Rolling hills and jungle and some beautiful vistas over the ocean and the small islands. I will miss this country, it has been a great experience and I have met some great people with some great stories.

A small prop plane took me to Manila and then a airbus to KK. The plane from Manila was delayed a few hours, it was a strange sight looking out onto the apron and seeing an airbus having a tyre changed!

The Philippines didn't disappoint with the 'hidden' costs. Within a few weeks the departure tax had risen from 500ph to 750ph! The airport was like being in a fridge. After over a month of wearing little more than shorts it was very uncomfortable. At one stage I thought I was getting frostbite. I surprised myself by winning the game onboard the Manila KK sector with three colours beginning with 'P'. If nothing else Cebu are try to make flights fun!

I arrived in KK just after 8pm and sought out some budget accommodation for the two nights I would be staying. A very helpful lady at the information dest at the airport suggested heading to 'Australia Place'. It was quite odd getting into a proper Taxi after five weeks of Tricycles. It was even odder to have to pay the equivalent of £6 for a 15 minute journey. Back to civilisation egh!

Knackered I got a room at 'Lucy's Backpacking lodge' , the first one I saw as I alighted the taxi. £18 for two nights. Much more expensive than some of the places we had stayed in but clean and included breakfast.

I will check out the bus timetable. My understanding is that the buses leave early in the morning. I'm not sure of the cost. It's probably going to be more expensive than the flight with Air Asia but it will give me a change to see the Sabah and Northern Sarawak countryside and of course, it is much better for the environment.




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Location:Coron. Palawan, Philippines.

Wednesday 1 December 2010

We're off to see the wizard

Coron is a nice little town, not that i've seen much beyond the hostel, hospital and the port.
The foot seems to be coming on fine and dandy. I can now put weight on it and don't look as disabled as I did a couple of days ago. I'll give it another day then perhaps venture out to explore the town.



There is a surprising benefit which must be attributed to either the painkillers or the strong antibiotics. It's the dreams.

Last night I dreamt I was being interviewed at immigration control in Brunei by an immigration officer dressed as a pantomime dame. She dissolved like the wicked witch of the East and was carted off by a group of munchkins.

This was all in glorious Technicolor.




Today I will be mostly skipping down the yellow brick road in search of the wizard.

The downside is I only have four of the painkillers left!!!!!


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Location:Coron,Philippines

Tuesday 30 November 2010

For Crying Out Loud.... Disaster strikes

Coron island is very pretty, however that was lost on me. 24 hours after standing on the rusty nail I would have gladly paid anyone to cut my foot off such was the pain.

Not totally unexpected, standing on a nail on an old cargo boat swilling with with buffalo shit and piss I had got an infection. On reflection I should have gone to the hospital straight away and sought antibiotics but didn't. Such was the pain I had trouble putting any weight on the left foot at all so on Monday morning decided to seek medical advice and took the short tricycle ride to Coron District hospital. The driver suggested he waited for me which was kind and I hobbled into the small village hospital. I had to wait about 20 minutes and the doctor was young enough to be my son but he efficiently diagnosed the problem as a particularly nasty infection and prescribed a 7 day course of antibiotics of the excocet variety and some strong painkillers.

While I was waiting in the reception of the hospital a DHL delivery arrived. It was one of those old blood pressure machines in a long box with the mercury that gives the blood pressure reading. I don't think I have ever seen so much excitement, everyone wanted a go. Even the new patients that arrived were offered the service. It makes you grateful for the NHS.
The doctor did not charge me, just gave me a prescription. My tricycle driver was waiting and out of sheer gratitude I gave him a 50 peso tip. He was made up.

After exchanging my prescription I headed back to my room and took the first tablets. Then preceded to sleep for the next 30 hours experiencing high temperatures and hallucination.

Apart from the inconvenience of not been able to walk I had also missed a dive trip to the Japanese wrecks just off the coast. Andrew and Kipp had gone ahead diving and Jono was snorkling, by all accounts they had a great day but there was absolutely no way I could have joined them.
Throughout my first 24 hours I did take advantage of an online medical consultation. With Moo via text for which I was grateful. Thanks Moo. The antibiotics you suggested were exactly the ones prescribed.

Waking up on Tuesday I did feel infinitely better, the foot still hurt like fuck but the temperature was back to something like normal and I could put a bit of weight on the foot.

There is a certain irony in that the cost of the cargo fare together with the medication was exactly the same as the super cat ferry from El Nido.
The course of antibiotics lasts till 6th December. I have instructions to keep the wound clean with hydrogen peroxide, no swimming and certainly no alcohol. ' For crying out loud' as a certain Dutch flight attendant would say.

I leave Coron on 3rd December to fly to Koto Kinabalu in Malaysia via Manilla. Depending on how the foot is I may stay a night in KK and then get the 9 hour bus journey to Miri.



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Location:Coron,Philippines

Sunday 28 November 2010

I've always wanted to go on a cruise........

The last few days in El Nido were relaxing. The beach in The town was OK but there was a better one about 30 minutes up the coast. On the day before Liz and Sabi ere to leave we took trip there for bit of swimming and R and R. It was beautiful. The only way there was by tricycle the a path through the jungle. It was worth it. White beaches and a beautiful vista of the little islands surrounding El Nido and Palawan. We spend the day there. An resort hotel had been built just by the beach. Liz's curry would have fed a small fillipino town. Mine and Sabi's pizza was actually shipped from Italy, or so we assumed , it took about 90 minutes and was not worth waiting for.

Most of us were feeling a little jaded from the previous evening so found a hammock and spent the afternoon swaying in the breeze.
Sabi and Liz were leaving the following evening for Manilla and then Amsterdam. They had made the decision, despite the expense, to fly from El Nido rather than take the local bus back to Puerto Princessa and the cheaper Cebu Pacific flight.
After another lazy day we said our goodbyes and waved them off. It was really sad after spending the last month travelling around with them. I certainly had great fun and thoroughly enjoyed every minute. Thanks Girls...


























Kipp, Jono, Andrew and myself had made plans to travel to Coron on Friday evening by the cheaper option of cargo boat, another adventure. The boat left at midnight and took around 8 hours. The day was spent on the beach after packing our gear and leaving it in a spare room. We would have a bit of time to kill during the evening but I was quite looking forward to a new mode of travel.

Back at the El Nido Plaza hotel by four, a bit of internetting and the dinner. There is a very nice place called the Art Cafe where they do really nice food and have free, albeit very slow internet access. While there are loads of Internet cafes around town, some hard wired and others Wi Fi, the connections continually break making it frustrating to say the least. I think Kipp was on the verge of a nervous breakdown on more then one occasion trying to organise his onward flights and flights home.

After a very tasty curry in the art cafe I did a bit of emailing, despite it being a great place the bloody waitress got on my tits and she seemed hellbent on harassing anyone who was using the Wi Fi but did not constantly have a drink in front of them. Kipp did a brilliant job of making a single coffee last 3 hours. I was not so successful and in the end got pissed off with the woman and walked back to our hostel. Andrew was enjoying the local gin with a number of locals, I joined the . One guy was telling us that we always needed to be careful in the Philippines as there were some bad people. There were stories in Manila about drugging and muggings but since leaving the capital it had been nothing but friendly. Some of the places were more so than others but we had never seen any trouble. In an effort to reinforce the fact that you needed to look after yourself one of the guys we were drinking with popped to his room and came back with a loaded revolver. He did remove the clip for Andrew to have a look but I have a view that guns and alcohol are not ideal bedmates!
I was a bit relieved when he returned it to it's holster and back to the room. They guy then announced that he also had an oozi. As Sabi would say 'for crying out loud'!!
Thankfully he did not feel it necessary to give us a demonstration.

Guns appear to be quite popular in quite a few places in South East Asia, especially the Phillipines. Those inclined can go to a shooting range and let off all types of guns. There was an option to the a cow, a grenade launcher and do your own BBQ. Not my cup of tea!

At 11.30 we all got loaded up with our backpacks and headed towards the little port for the cargo boat. The lady who had sold Andrew the tickets made a point, several times, of managing our expectations in that the schedule for leaving and arriving did include an element 'flexibility'. That it did, were were loaded onto the boat at around midnight. The cargo included about 20 water buffalos together with a hold full of rice and animal feed. We had been drinking a little and I had no idea what time we left. Around 6.30. I slept most. Of the journey. I was thankful for the alcohol as I stood on a nail and gave myself a nasty puncture in my right foot. It fucking hurt!!



















After boarding the boat in El Nido at midnight we arrived in Coran at 4pm. A long trip. Apparently there were quite heavy seas at points in the journey. I had no idea, I slept like a baby. When I did wake my foot hurt like hell. I did a bit of first aid with hydrochloric acid and iodine and hobbled off the boat.












There was a hostel called sea divers (original egh!) that looked OK and quite cheap. Kipp and I wasted no time, jumped in a tricycle and got the last cheap room, much to the disgust of another couple who thought that they had already booked it. No flies on us. First is first, second is nowhere. The American guy who was travelling with the couple who thought they had booked the room had a face like a slapped arse....

The room was one of the better we had lived in over the last month. Clean and dry and although it had a shared bathroom, it had hot water. The first in a month....

I'm now planning to get back to Borneo. It looks probable that I will need to go straight from Coron to Kota Kinabalu via Manilla in the next few days. The rest are planning to go to Malapasca to try and do some diving with the thresher sharks. Realistically I don't have time to do that if I want to get to Miri the first week in December.

I'll look into the flights.


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Location:Coron,Philippines

Monday 22 November 2010

Island Hopping in El Nido


After an early night today I was up bright and early. We are going on an Island hopping tour.
The early morning weather was cloudy but that soon burnt off and as we boarded our boat the sun was shining.
Kipp, Liz, Sabi, Andrew, Jonno and I were looking forward to a day of beaches and snorkling.
We had negotiated a good deal to include fins, mask ,snorkel and lunch. The first island was beautiful. A very pretty lagoon. The small fish were very territorial and aggressive. They came up to the front of the mask and stared. Cheeky little bastards!
There were several other stops with lunch in-between. It pissed it down later in the afternoon but it was still a great day and well worth the price.



Lunch was fresh fish, chicken and salad with rice. After a morning of activity it went down a treat. Thankfully we had not brought beer with us. It could have got messy.

The islands around El Nido are very pretty. It is rather like Halong Bay but without the tourists. This part of the island of Palawn does take some getting too and I guess this is why it is one of the last bastions of backpackers in the Philippines. I suspect that will not last too long and it will be another Boracay in a few years time. I'm pleased we had taken the trouble and effort to get here. It was well with it.

There are quite a lot of western tourists in the town. Almost all of them are backpackers. It is a loverly place although the people in the main are not quite as friendly as the rest of the places in the Philippines.
That said, I do like it. I like it a lot.

The girls will be leaving on 25th to fly back to Manila and then on to Amsterdam. We are staying till Sunday (Kipp, Andrew, Jonno and myself).
Kipp and I want to get to Cebu and then on to Bahol. Not sure how yet although the first stage of the trip has been worked out. El Nido to Bahol. On a cargo boat which leaves on Sunday. What the fuck is happening to me????




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Location:Calle Real,El Nido,Philippines

New travelling companions.

There is nothing to beat the panic of opening your eyes after a particularly boozy night, looking at the clock and then blind panic.

Glen knocked on the door at 7.15 to tell us that the bus stop for our 9 hour trip to el nido, which left at 8.00am was about 30 minutes away by tricycle. To cut a long story short, we just made it. Just......

The girls and I had got money the previous evening as (once again) there are no ATM's in the northern Palawan town.

Kipp and I jumped into the first tricycle as he had to get cash. The girls followed and actually got there first.

I was not looking forward to the journey, especially in my fragile state!

It was actually quite good. The scenery was stunning. We got there well under the estimated 9 hours. On our last stop a couple of guys, Andrew and Jonno joined the bus. They had been travelling for over 9 months and had another month in the Philippines before heading to Bali. The bus was full so Andrew climbed on the roof. At the next stop both Kipp and Liz joined him. Sabi and I thought better of it and and stayed in the relative discomfort of the bus.



Coming into the town the views out across the sea were beautiful. It was like a mini 'Halong Bay'.

Once in town the bus was besieged by people wanting to provide rooms and rides into town. My patience was wearing thin. After a long journey and a massive hangover being harangued before you have even got your bags will not get good results....

Of course, it was well past 'Beer O'clock' we made our way to the bar overlooking the beach. Andrew and Jonno had left to find somewhere to stay. Kipp and Liz followed, there was nothing at the right price so all 6 of us ended up at then same hostel.

Once again, clean cheap and damp. Small cabin type accommodation with a shared bathroom across the yard. We had eaten earlier so armed with a bottle of Rum, some coke, some vodka and some sprite we sat on out veranda and got pissed again.... There is a certain theme here!
Halfway through then evening Jonno, who had been slurring for some time flaked out and went to bed. That was a big mistake on his part as when he woke the next morning Andrew had kindly drawn all over him in pen. Very amusing!
We all went skinny dipping. Kipp, decided it would be a good idea to dive from a boat into 3 ft of water. Not a good idea, he nearly broke his fucking neck !

Although it was a nice morning we all were pretty jaded. The girls successfully booked a flight from El Nido direct to Manila which gave them an extra day and saved the need to do the 9 hour bus journey in reverse.

Tomorrow we are taking a boat trip around some of the islands. Lunch, snorkelling are included. Definitely an early night!!!!!



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Location:El Nido - Palawan - Philippines

We made it in one go!

We were all up early. The girls were already having breakfast, they were going to turn up at the immigration office at 9.30 and see if the visas had been done. Success, they were, they came back to give us the good news, not before they had wound us up that it would take another 4 days.
We jumped on the boat for the short journey to Batangas and then the airport. We really wanted to avoid staying in Manila for the night. It was the 17th November and if possible I wanted to celebrate my birthday in Palawan.
Once in Batangas we got a bus to Manila, it would take about 2 hours 30 minutes. We did stop off at a service station on the way, there was a cash point. We did know that there were no cash points at our final destination of El Nido and all of us were quite anxious to stock up.

The bus driver was very helpful in that he called us a cab so as we pulled up by Manila Airport we jumped in a cab. There is a time and a place to negotiate a good price so I accepted then first quote of 200 pesos and we all jumped in the one cab.

The tickets were bought at the Cebu Pacific counter and we were sorted!
Once again the flight had it's 'Cebu' inflight entertainment. This time it's was a 'name three things' the first questions was ' name three countries beginning with F'
My hand shot up, 'France, Finland and Philippines' thinking (or hoping) that there was a Filipino way of spelling.






The flight attendant looked at me
'Phillipines begins with PH' she said, but her eyes conveyed a 'are you a Fuckwit' sort of look..

On the flight Sabi was researching the 'city in the jungle' and had a couple of suggestions for cheap accommodation. The first one looked really nice but was full. The second one looked a little less aesthetically pleasing but this was more than made-up by a good price and Glen, the good natured owner who was very helpful to the point of being quite annoying.

One installed we went in search of food and drink. For the last couple of weeks Sabi and I had been desperate for a rack of Ribs. Granted, not the national dish but they sold them in a number of places which we had visited.
Tonight was the night.... Delicious.
It was decided that we would start celebrating my birthday at midnight, and we did. I was as pissed as a fart and didn't get to bed till very very late. Consequently the first half of my actual birthday was spend nursing a mammoth hangover! Not a good start to my 51st year but great fun culminating with a live band playing 'Happy Birthday' just after midnight.

Oh, and I bought myself a birthday gift. Two pairs of pants as I had none left!!!

Facebook nearly crashed with all the birthday wishes from back home and people I had met on the trip.

In an effort to blow the cobwebs away we had a walk into the town and the quay. There was a nice church not far from the port and I lit a candle for Mum, JB, Liz whose sister in law was having an operation and Mooo.

Just across the road was a garden of remembrance for some US soldiers who had been murdered in the second world war. They had been Japanese POW's. On December 9th, 153 had been ordered into the air raid shelter. Their captors then threw grenades and gasoline down and killed all but 11 of them.






The rest of the day was quite chilled. Dinner was great. Kipp and the girls had done a team photo and a card with all the crazy 'catch phrases we had used on the trip. I was also given three 'personalised' lighters as I kept losing mine. I even had a cake, plus another two renditions of ' Happy Birthday' one in the restaurant and one in a bar later in the evening. The cake was provided by the restaurant but Liz provided the candles. She had bought them in Puerto Galera and in an effort to keep them hidden from me had put then in her arse crack while she walked around town. We had eaten the cake by the time she shared that piece of information with us. They were magic candles, the ones that don't go out. They are only humorous for so long.....

On the 19th we organised to go an a trip to another of Asia's '8th wonders of the world' the longest subterranean river in the world. We did a deal with Glen to get a private bus, lunch and visits to other 'attractions' it was a long but very interesting day, the river trip was great, at the crocodile farm we were all getting more than a little jaded. Kipp decided it would bee cool to tease one of the five year old Crocs and nearly lost an arm as it jumped up at him. It also nearly gave me a heart attack.



The final destination was 'Bakers Hill'. It was a bit like a themed garden centre. it was quite shite really.

As we were leaving early on the 20th for El Nido we planned an early night. Once again, the best laid plans and all that. Arriving back at the hostel Glen had got a group of friends around and we were asked to join. More beer, met a charming lad who was Mr Puerto and his mates. Had a good chat and rolled into bed at around two.

It had been a great few days...


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Location:Puerto Princesa - Palawan - Philippines

We're in the Money!

It was becoming increasingly apparent that if we wanted to get to our goal of El Nido we would have to go back to Manila and fly. Some parts of the Philippines are not, as we have already experienced,an easy place to travel around. That is perhaps not a bad thing. It means that yip really have to make an effort if you want to get to some of the nice places and of course many people do not want to do that.
I had quite enjoyed the island of Mindoro. Many adventures and many good photos and memories that I will dine out on for years to come....

We made a plan!
We would leave Puerto Galaras on the boat to the port of . We would then get a bus to Manila and a flight to the island of Palawan. The only flights went to the 'City in the Forest' Puerto Princesa although not ideal as it in Central Palawan and El Nido was in Northern Palawan.
We were going to attempt to do the whole trip in one go.

The second motivation to leave the island of Mindoro was none of us had any money left. There were very few ATM's in Mindoro and therefore very few opportunities to get cash.

As we left White Beach and onto the main road to get a tricycle into the port town of Puerto Galera, I looked across the road to see a master card sign at a Money Changer. I quickly checked if they did cash advances on credit cards and 'ding dong' they did. There was a charge of 7% but needs must...

Wallets recharged we headed to Puerto Galera proper and to get some overnight accommodation. Of course it was 'beer o'clock now we we were all relieved to that we were no longer destitute and would not have eat any more 'Pot Noodles'

Sabi and Liz had taken their passports into the immigration offices a couple of days previously and were due to pick them up on Wednesday at two. If they could do that a little earlier then there was a chance we could get to Manila airport in time to catch the 3.50pm flight. The original pick up time was two in the afternoon but it was agreed that they could collect at 11.00.

in a small bar on the quay side we got chatting to a welsh guy (and his girlfriend). He was busy getting pissed. He had come of a motorbike a few days earlier, lost a toe (in that it had been removed, not that he didn't know where it was) today he was having then stitches removed and as he had a very low tolerance of pain he decided that a few rum and cokes would do the trick! It did bring it home that, beautiful as it was, you need to be careful as the healthcare is not what we are used to.

Puerto Galera seemed to be a popular place for old guys and their young Filipino girls. Mostly westerners and Aussies...

While we had a beer Kipp went on a the search for somewhere to stay. Success, a really nice room just on the front.
It seemed to be a one horse town, closing at 10.30. That was perhaps a good thing.We had a relatively quite night in our dry clean accommodation before the rushed journey to Palawan....



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Location:Puerto Galera,Philippines

Lady Boys, Fire Jugglers and no money.......


We arrived at White beach on the boat from Abra like some sort of explorer putting foot on land. As we walked up the beach we were surrounded by people trying to sell watches, massages, rooms and trinkets. After a long days travelling it is sometimes quite difficult to smile and say no thank you.
Our first task was to get some food, cheap food, it was becoming very apparent that the advice given in the Lonely Planet, to stock up on cash in San Jose, advice we had chosen to ignore, was in fact good advice.

After some food we agreed that Sabi and I would do the accommodation run first. We were quick! Within 10 mins we had found somewhere suitable and
Damp room again but cheap
We stayed on white beach three days, it was good fun.
Three nights. Compared to some of the places we had been too in the last week of travels in Mindoro it was quite lively. The first night there was a drag act on the beach which was hilarious. The bars there had more than their fair share of lady boys
Lady boy show was on the first night. It was very funny,and i got vert very drunk on shorts, fuck the fact we have no money. At Abra Kip had found a visa ATM and lent me 4k. I did my best to spend it all at once. I even had lessons in fire dancing. Not with real fire but my co-ordination was somewhat impaired with all then vodka.
There was goood food, again a welcome change to the rest of Mindoro. All three nights we had BBQ on the beach, delicious !
The beach was OK but we spent the three days just chilling out.
On the last night Kareoke great rendition of suspicious minds (better than yours Mrs Billinton.
I did ' A Fairy Tale in New York' I had forgotten how quickly the lyrics went.
Good laugh though!

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Location:Western Nautical Hwy,Puerto Galera,Philippines

Sunday 14 November 2010

The long way round

Today we leave Sabalayan. We are headed north to Puerto Galera.
There is no direct route as the island has a impassable mountain range that separates the main area of Mindiro Occidental and the top end of the island.
There is an aircon bus that goes up to Abra de Ilog and then you need to catch a ferry to Batangas and then a second Ferry to Puerto Galera. That what normal people would do, but we are not normal!
We take a local bus to Abra and then hire a fishing boat to the White Beach if Puerto Galera!
On the first part of the journey we probably saw more poverty than we had seen for the whole trip to the Philippines. At one stage a couple of 'natives' complete in loincloths got on the bus. They were about 5ft tall and had HUGE feet.
The four hour journey was very uncomfortable. Good Tarmac roads were interspersed with some very bumpy and rutted terrain. About 20km from Abra we changed vehicles to an aircon people carrier to the port. That sounds like luxury! Not with 14 people crammed into it.
30 minutes later we arrived at Abra and despite the ferry being at the pier negotiated a ride on a small fishing boat. Only a little cheaper than the Ferry to Batangas and on to Puerto Galera but much quicker at 90 minutes.

The journey on the boat was a little challenging for the first 30 minutes with large swells and a quite choppy sea. As we rounded the headland the sea got much calmer. There was a beautiful rainbow in the distance which suggested rain. There were other people also on our boat and we landed on a small beach to drop them off, together with what looked like their weekly shop.
90 minutes after leaving Abra we were dropped off at White Beach. There is something a bit unreal about arriving at a destination and being deposited on a white beach complete with Backpacks.

White Beach, Puerto Galera is a load of bars, restaurants and hotel/hostels on the beach front. It is not as commercialised as Boracay but was still great fun. After landing on the beach we were surrounded by people wanting to offer trinkets, rooms and massage.

We had a spot of lunch before taking it in turns to seek out some rooms. Sabi and I went first and settled on the first one. The starting price was 1000 pesos but we finally agreed on 400 per room per night. Again budget but clean (ish)
Lunch was the first hot food we had eaten in four days. Chicken Curry, delicious. It was Saturday and the beach was busy. It appears that Puerto Galera is a popular weekend destination for Filopino's but there were also quite a few Koreans and also westerners. Most of the westerners were either backpackers or had a young (often, very young) filopino girl in tow.

After a shower we headed down the beach to the bars. It was a great night. A lady boy show, fire jugglers and a spectacular storm in across the ocean on Luzon.
Of course we all had far too much to drink and didn't get to bed till at least three am. No drama, just got up at midday!
The rest of my first full day in Puerto Galera was spent feeling rather jaded. It was a typical Sunday after a big Saturday. For the first time in a long while I didn't have a drink of alcohol. An early night too...

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Location:Puerto Galera,Philippines

Another day on the Beach

Today we will mostly be spending a day on the beach. We had arranged to be picked up outside our Hostel at 9.00am for the 30 minute ride across the sea to an island called Panadan.
It was a beautiful day, not a cloud in the sky an very hot. The boat was quite small, indeed it did look as if it had been chopped in half. The skipper was accompanied by his son. Once out of the estuary we hit a sandbank. No problem. The skipper and his son (who was probably around 6) jumped into the sea and started pushing the boat over the sandbank. We had a loverly day in the sun and more importantly had a great lunch of vegetable fried rice. It is the first hot food we have had since leaving Boracay three days ago.
We are all running out if money!
There is no ATM
Pandan island
Small boat
Beautiful scenery



Fried rice
Crystal clear water
Hammock
Storm
Quiet dinner
Early bus



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Location:Sabalyan . Bueno Vista, Philippines

And on to Sablayan.......

The fact that Mindoro Occidental and San Jose is well off the beaten tourist track was apparent. I don't think we saw a single westerner while we were there and despite all the signs Menus being in English very few people spoke good English.
It is a bit discerning at first to have children stare at you but everyone is so curious and friendly.
Finding somewhere to eat was a challenge. At 8.00pm most places were shut. During the afternoon we tracked down an AC bus that went to Sablayan and it departed at 6.30 in the morning. An early night and then back to the bus station.
That's when the fun started. Dimple Star Transport had a logo with Micky and Minnie Mouse. How apt was that!!
The guy who had told us about the bus pointed us in the direction of the ticket office. There was a long line waiting to buy tickets and little regard for the 'waiting in line' protocol. This was more than a little annoying and after a couple of times Sabi stood her ground. The prospective offenders took heed but by the time we reached the front the time was already 6.45 and the bus was gone. The general business efficiency in the Philippines appears to be rather resource heavy- why should one person do it when you could gainfully employ four?
At the bus ticket office there were two people at the ticket office. Both were ignoring us. I'm not sure why but one guy with an embarrasses smirk on his face was looking anything to do rather than serve us. It was very very annoying. The second chap there was saying it was very busy, as his colleague counted a pole if paper clips for the fourth time.
Tempers were frayed. We had arrived in good time to get the 6.30 bus, it had left because the officials would not serve us and now we couldn't get a ticket for the 11.00 am bus for sine reason.
Solution?
Go on the local bus rather than the aircon bus.
Just as Sabi was about to pull the smirking paperclip counter over the desk and head-but him Kipp popped his head around the corner. There was a local bus going to Sabalayan at 7.30.

At 7.30 we were in our way again the bus was old, the benches were hard but we were now g again after a near international incident.
The trip was around 2 and a half hours. The roads were good for the first part of the journey. It us rice harvest time and the concrete roads were doubling up as rice drying areas. Every few hundred yards were stretches of rice raked into uniform lines to dry in the morning sunshine.
The scenery as we moved north was stunning. Lush paddy fields, occasional glimpses of the ocean and high mountains to the east.

About 90 minutes into this very enjoyable and quite pedestrian journey the bus driver seemed to have a bit of a moment and with no warning whatsoever put his foot to the floor and started to race down the country roads at a rather disturbing and probably quite dangerous speed then suddenly jumping on the brakes.
It was quite hairy, especially as the roads were now only concrete in some areas. Apart from the suspension being very hard and actually bouncing us right out of our seats, we bus was looking perilously close to tipping over on more than one occasion. The driver had a rear mirror the width and could see us all in it. Maybe he was enjoying scaring us or maybe the roll up in his hand, as Kipp suggested was not tobacco.

We were all quite relived when we arrived at Conception town which was roughly halfway from our destination.
After a coke, some crisps and a chat with the locals we were back on the road. Thankfully the driver had taken a chill pill and slowed the pace quite considerably, that said it was still a very bumpy ride.
At around 20k from our destination Sabi needed the 'comfort room' the bus stopped at the entrance to the Sablayan Prison and Penal Colony. 'What about a visit?' was the question.
' Why Not!'
We unloaded our stuff from the bus and wandered to the guard post. It was possible so we loaded our backpacks onto a tuktuk for the 6k ride to the prison offices. The road was unmade and we had to push the tuktuk through mud, at one stage having to get out and push, but arrived at the prison reception after about 30 minutes passing a number of inmates on the way. The colour of their shirts indicated the level. Blue for low security and Orange for Blue for low security. Many gave waves but some menacing glares. What the fuck are we doing here. All our belongings, in the middle of nowhere and in the midst of criminals. We must be bloody mad.



At the reception we negotiated a visit to a lake in the prison grounds. They had to do some checking and get permission, we also had to sign a waiver in case we got taken hostage or something. While this was being sorted we all had our photos taken with a guard' holding a fully loaded AK45, very surreal!!
We had a picnic at a beautiful lake, after a few minutes a group of prisoners wandered up for lunch. Once again, how many people can say they have visited a prison, never mind had lunch with a group of prisoners
As we were riding back in the tuktuk a large van passed the tuktuk. In the back were half a dozen guards armed with huge guns.
Back at the main road we waited around 30 minutes and along came a bus which took us onto our destination, Sabalayan
The hotel we were staying at was called Emilys, from the lonely planet. Once again clean, basic but very cheap and right on the side of the river.
Dinner was fun. You couldn't call it a restaurant. It was a room with some tables in it. Packed out with locals. The owner, a lady told us it had only been open two days and she was absolutely pissed. Why wouldn't you. A full restaurant after only two days. We were having to eat on the cheap. Money was low and the small fishing village of had no ATM's
Our accommodation was right on the side of the river. Once again, budget
Description.
Tomorrow we will take a small boat to the Island of Panadan for a day on the beach.

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Location:San Jose , Occidental Mindores Philippines

Show me the way to San Jose

We docked at Roxas at about 6.00pm.The Lonely Planet described it as 'non descript' . Myself, I think that is a very charitable way of describing it. The port was a little out of town but we ascertained that there was a bus to our planned destination at 6.30 the following morning so set about finding somewhere to stay for the night.
All four of us together with our luggage piled into a single TukTuk. The Lonely Planet had a couple of cheap suggestions but we beat our record with a £1.43 room. We all shared of course but it was only for one night.
Along the main road in Roxas were a number of 'Cafe' types serving local food. It was actually quite nice. We sat in while it rained stair rods outside then made our way back, stopping on the way for some local vodka and sprite. Bed by 12.00 ready for an early start and the 96km trip across the island by Jeepney to San Jose.
Well what a trip. The jeepney was leaving at 6.30 in the morning. When we arrived at the Petrol station the rather 'old' looking vehicle.






The jeepney was already full to bursting as we arrived. Sabi and I got in the front while Liz and Kipp jumped in the back. There was little room and the seats were no more than benches. This was going to be a hard and long four hours. There were all sorts of cargo, rice, fruit, vegetables. We were only missing the chicken and goats. Just behind me was a huge bag of dried fish which reeked. After a quite heavy night of beer and cheap vodka last night it wasn't the most welcome company and had me wrenching. Sabi came to the rescue with Tiger Balm. I took a finger full and pasted it under my nose. Much better....
We set off in the Jeepney at 7.00am. We had been on the road no longer than five minutes when we turned off into what looked like a muddy field where there was a market. Having stopped the driver and his two assistants loaded yet more fruit and veg onto the top of the vehicle. 30 minutes later we were off again. Not before a really camp guy complete with a bob haircut and a clutch bag minced across the market screaming, climbed into the back and plopped himself next to Kipp. Very amusing.

The first couple of hours was fine. Tarmac roads and beautiful scenery. Mountains on one side and coast on the other side. This isn't going to be too bad I said to Sabi. I was expecting unmade roads......
I spoke too soon . After a short stop we got back in the bus. By now there were people sitting on top and hanging from the side. A few Kilometres later we hit the bad stuff. Knee deep mud and a hill. There were several vehicles stuck already. We got out of the jeepney and walked up the hill in the blazing heat while chains were put on the wheels. On the way up we saw a number of vehicles almost tip over, most were full of cargo and people. One actually came down the hill sideways. With relief out driver did a super job and got to the top in one go. We all boarded again and we were off. Apparently there were another two stretches of road which were going to be similar.



The roads in the Philippines serve two purposes. Apart from the obvious they are also used to dry the recent crop of rice. Mile after mile of tarmac road is laid out with the rice which once dried is bagged and picked up. There is obvious poverty in the town and villages but everyone has a smile. Every time we went through a village the fits would shriek and wave at the passing bus.
The Philippines are really into cock fighting (of the bird variety) at one stage we actually had one on the top of the truck. At one village I was speaking to a chap who introduced me to his prize cock. It was fighting the following day. It did look a majestic creature. "will it win" I asked. "Of course" was the response" , as though it was a really stupid question.

The second of the challenges was a little similar to the mud road we had encountered earlier in the journey. Although it was on the flat some of the mud was almost waist deep and once again there were a number of vehicles stuck on the quarter mile stretch. They were attaching a winch to trees at the side of the road and inch by inch pulling the vehicle towards the dry road.
A DHL courier was in The front of of our Jeepney. He suggested that it would take at least 3 hours. It was hot, very hot so after walking the half mile towards the dry road at the other side of the quagmire I found a log and started to have a small power nap.
I was surprised when, only 30 minutes later around the corner came our carriage. Excellent driving....

The rest of the journey was pretty straightforward and we arrived in San Jose just 30 minutes late. And all for a couple of quid!!!
San Jose is perhaps the largest town in Mindoro Occidental. After arriving we found a hotel, it was called the Mindoro Plaza. Once again very cheap but clean. One thing that was noticeable in the smaller town was the lack of good food. We struggled but eventually found something that was ok.
We needed to travel on to a the fishing village Sabalayan. It was about another 70 miles north.
The Rough Guide suggested that San Jose was a good place to stock up with cash as ATM's were few and far between further north. It's not big and it's not clever but we chose to ignore that advice.......



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Location:San Jose Mindoro Occidental Philippines

Mindoro Oriental

After a week in Boracay it was time to move on. We had decided to stay travelling together for a little while so Liz, Sabbie, Kipp and myself checked out of our accommodation and headed via tuktuk to the port and than on to Catalin port for the RoRo ferry to Mindoro. We had seen the ferry leave each day and even before we knew where it went decided it would be fun. It was quite sad to be leaving Boracay but a week was probably just about right.
At Catalin port we got our tickets and paid yet another 'terminal fee' and boarded the ferry. It took about 4 hours and landed at the other side of the island that we wanted. No problem. Time is not an issue.
I don't think there were any other westerners on the boat. We managed to find our way onto the bridge for a photo driving.
The noticeable thing about the Philippino people is their friendly disposition. They try to sell you stuff with a smile. I said 'no thank you' to a chap selling sun glasses yesterday and his response was 'you're 'welcome'.
In Thailand you would have got a growl!
It seems that the choice of day fir travelling was wise. By 3.00 the sun was behind some pretty angry clouds.
The plan as it stands is to stay in Roxas for a night and then move on to the less populated areas of the Island. Palawan is also on the itinerary but when? Who knows....



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Location:Roxas Mindoro Oriental Philippines

Sunday 7 November 2010

Philippines..... OMG ....paradise

So......
After a few days with the boys I have itchy feet!
Passport, credit card and a much lighter backpack I'm headed back Miri Airport and a flight to KK and then Clark, Manila, Philippines.

How random is this.....??
I've met some great people in my two months travelling but this takes the biscuit.

After the flight to KK I was in the line to check in for the onward flight to Manila. I turned around to a wide charming grin.
I smile back, of course. I have learned by now, it costs nothing and a big grin in a great ice breaker. The recipient either opens up to you or thinks you are a retard and graciously moves on embarrassed.
In the line adjacent, is a guy having a debate with the check in staff. He only has a ticket to the Philippines and apparently immigration insist you have a return ticket...
That's at 2.30 in the afternoon.
At 8.00 in the evening we are all checking into a hostel in the backpackers area in Manila, sharing the same room.
That was almost a week ago.
We are now on the beautiful island of Boracay having a great time. More of that later. Back to the story......

If I had any doubt that I wasn't a 'proper' backpacker that is long past.
The hostel in Manila was a 'proper' backpackers place.
As I arrived in Clark, I did have a bit if a plan.
Clark is an old US airforce base. It's actually about two and a half hours outside Manila. I originally planned to stay in the nearby city of Angeles, them travel on to Manila the next day.My new travelling companions were travelling straight to Manila so I decided to join them.
Once in Manila we headed for the Backpackers quarter 'Malate' this is probably one of the more 'seedy' areas of the city. Our home for the night was the 'friendly' guest house.
Not before we had scoured the rest if the neighbourhood looking for a room.
Friendly it was
A) we were all in the same room
B) Benji, the owner went out if his way to make us all welcome.

After a couple of beers and a burger at. Local bar across the road from the hostel we headed back to the roof terrace of the hostel for a night cap. It turned into a rather 'big' night. Beer, Brandy plus a nice bottle of red wine graciously provided by our host 'Benji'
My new 'Roomys' were Sabbi and Liz, flight attendants with Royal Dutch Airlines, KLM and Kipp, a guy from London.
Despite the glamour of nice hotels and big cities, the girls were somewhat 'spunky' and enjoyed the 'backpackers' life. Kipp had given up a job as a sound man in TV and Film and had been travelling since April in Asia. We say in that rooftop bar till 4am chatting to our fellow travellers and listening to the expert advice if 'mein host' Benji. I'm really not sure at what stage a decision was made but by midday we were all in a cab (not Benji if course - he still has a hostel to run) and on our way to Manila international airport and a 'Cebu Pacific' flight to Boracay.
Don't you just lurve 'budget'. Airlines?
The price was OK but at every point there was something else to pay.A 10k baggage allowance so excess baggage applies, A get out of the airport tax, etc etc. However ..... We paid and it was well worth it. The Island if Boracay was great fun. My time there was significantly enhanced by my fellow travellers.





And an explanation to all my blog followers as to why I haven't updated the blog. I've been far to busy having a laugh. In reality I've also been far too pissed to string a sentence together, never mind write it down.

We stayed in Boracay for just over a week. Loads of sun, beer, swimming. Saw some spectacular sunsets and tropical storms. The people were great. I was sorry to leave but there is loads to see......









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Location:Malay,Philippines

Saturday 30 October 2010

Time out with the boys...

It feels as though I have not updated my blog for ages! Indeed, that is quite true! However, I have been busy.
While I was in Cambodia I was presented with a challenge. Billy, Lesley's husband was working in KL for a week and Lesley needed to visit the British High Commission to get the paperwork sorted for Emily's passport. 'would I look after the kids?'
Of course, it was the alcohol that made me say yes ( I speak 7 languages and can't say no in any of them)
So, Wednesday, 27th November, I was left with my two charges, Finlay, aged 4 and Ross aged 10.
How hard is that, I've run a sales team in BT Directories for fucks sake!
Actually, they were angels. I appointed Ross, second in command.


PBay. Persuaded to buy a bottle of 'rare' Scottish whisky. RM2000 (404 quid) it retails at 30 quid! Ooops.
That said, someone did pay RM1200 for a packet of Jelly babies......


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Location:Jalan Pantai,Miri,Malaysia

Sunday 24 October 2010

A family holiday!

After my 5 week tour I was back in Miri for a couple of days then off to Koto Kinabalu in the north of Malaysian Borneo, Sabah.
The flight was only 50 mins and the apartment we were staying at was just 10 minutes from the Airport.
There had been a huge typhoon in the Philippines a few days earlier and rumours were going around that it was headed towards Borneo. Fortunately it had a change of mind and course and the weather we enjoyed was brilliant.










The first full day we took a small boat and visited a couple of the Islands about 45 mins away. They were beautiful. A bit like the Maldives, quite small but lovely beaches. We met a lovely girl from the Netherlands as Billy did his battering for the boat to the islands. She was had a four week trip taking in Singapore, KL and Borneo before heading off to Brisbane.
On the first island Ross and I went snorkelling . There were loads of fish around, including a couple of rather aggressive clown fish (Nemo!) one who decided it would be OK to give me a couple of nips. All the fish were very brave, swimming right up to the front of the masks. A good hours swimming. As usual I had overdone it and ended up with a very pink and uncomfortable dose of sunburn!
We had arranged to be picked up from the first island at 1.00pm and be dropped off at a smaller island for another couple of hours on the beach and swimming in the South China Sea.
We headed back to Koto Kinabalu at 4.00 and headed off with Dorien for a nice pizza and a glass of wine.
The second full day we headed off to a beach resort and more swimming and sun. The Rasa Rea resort is close to the Jungle and an area that is the orang-utan sanctuary for those orphaned Orang-utan's who are up to three years old.
Just before I left BT I was presented with a leaving gift. An adopted Orang-Utan, Koyah, a three year old female. Today I met her!!! It was a lovely moment. As we wandered through the jungle, accompanied by a couple of park rangers, there was some rustling in the trees and then four young Orang-Utan's came into view. Koyah came within a couple of feet of me. They played around the feeding station for around 50 minutes and then off into the jungle to be replaced by around 20 smaller monkeys who cleared up the food that the Orang utan's had left.
A great day and I'm so pleased that I had finally got to meet Koyah.
I did tell her about her god father and godmother John and Jill. Her face suggests she was unimpressed.













We were back in Miri by lunchtime on Sunday. It was a great few days, lovely food, a great apartment and the kids were great fun. Billy has to catch the afternoon flight to KL. Lesley will be joining him on Wednesday and I face my biggest challenge yet. Looking after a 10 year old and four year old till Sunday.
More later.........
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Location:Jalan Pantai,Miri,Malaysia

Tuesday 19 October 2010

Angkor Wat and the rest

What an interesting day!
Mr Cheat turned out to be the perfect host for the day. Unknown to me my tour was more than the temples of Angkor.
I was picked up at 8.30 as planned. We travelled the 5km to the Angkor complex, there were three of us, Mr Cheat the driver, a really lovely Cambodian tour guide and two rather strange Germans from Heidelberg.

The tour guide spoke English and what she didn't know about the history of the temples was not worth knowing. Our first stop was Angkor Wat. Famous as it is, it was not my favourite. I just loved Angkor Thom and the one which had featured in Tomb Raider.













There were quite a few tourists around but the second two temples were less busy and just oozed history. Got some great photos. Lara Croft, I know you are in there somewhere!





After the first two temples we stopped for lunch at which point the heavens opened up and the last temple complex was a bit of a washout.







After the temples we dropped the unfriendly Germans off at their hotel and made our way to the lake. The trip was hairy. This time it was not because If the driving. The roads were flooded. About 3ft of water. At one stage I was convinced that we were going to be swept away, the water was actually in the car, swilling around my ankles. At one stage I did think i should suggest that we turn back, especially as Mr Cheat's only conversation was 'oh no, oh no!'







The Tonal Sap lake is an enormous part of the Mekong Delta that went all the way to Phnom Pehn, indeed you could get a boat between the two cities. At this time if the year it was twice as big as in the dry season. Didn't I know it. At serveral points in the journey I suspect we were actually in it.

The lake was home to a number of floating villages. The poverty out there was very apparent. Most of the villagers lived as fisherman and some of the homes were no more than a room on stilts.


I should news to me and then told I was also booked for dinner and an evening show. Not my kind of thing but did not want to offend. I was quite looking forward to a drunken night in pub alley. The food was not the best I have had in Cambodia. In fact it was shite. I was clock watching till Mr Cheat came to pick me up at 8.30.
In reality he had probably saved me from myself. I had to be up at 5.30am to be picked up for the airport transfer and a heavy night would probably not have been my best idea.





One common factor that exists right across south east Asia is a passionate dislike for the south Koreans. I had come across it in Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and now Cambodia. I had my own views but asked Tat, the guide why?

'they are so rude, the put nothing into the local economy, they use Korean guides, eat at Korean owned restaurants and shop at Korean owned shops. '

The ones I had come across in the last 6 weeks were indeed rude. Pushing in, extremely short and sometimes quite obnoxious to the locals... Tat had them sussed.

I was picked up at 6.00 the following morning and transported to the airport for my return to Miri via KL. It had been a great five weeks adventure!!


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Location:Siem Reap,Cambodia

Saturday 16 October 2010

A night out in Costa Del Siem Reap

The location name says it all. This is Cambodia at it's most decadent. Pub Alley. You really could be in Benidorm! It is really catering for the millions that pass through Siem Reap to visit the temples.

The good thing is that there are so many restaurants and pubs that there is stiff competition for both drinks and food.! Which makes to both good value and plenty of choice, from classic Khymer cuisine to the western favourites of Hamburger and chips. You can't walk more than a couple of paces without being hassled with TukTuks, food, drink, massage and girls. I was even offered Opium and Cocaine!
It's not a place I would chose to spend any length of time, but it's good for a night out.
Beyond Pub Alley are the more authentic street food stalls selling a good slap up meal for a couple of dollars.
















As the night wore on, the working girls appeared. All shapes and sizes.
It was pissing down but they were parading up and down the street under their brollies, plying for trade.
The nice thing here is that if you say no with a smile, you get a smile back. I can understand people getting pissed off with the constant hassle, but some folk are downright rude. It must be very disheartening for them trying to make a dollar. Whatever they are selling .
Second thoughts, I'm gonna stop the smiling, it seems to be a prostitute magnet! One working lady has just presented me with one if the fish from the 'fish massage' opposite. What the fuck am supposed to do with that!

I had a very pleasant evening. Being propositioned by so many beautiful women ( and some not so beautiful ) proves, at nearly 51, I still have 'it'.
The fact that they all wanted money is, of course, quite irrelevant .


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Location:Street 8,Siem Reap,Cambodia

The long journey to Siem Reap.....

The bus ride from Phnom Penh was the worst of the trip. I left the hotel at 7.15 to get the 7.30, 6 hour bus ride to Siem Reap and the Temples around Angkor Wat. I almost felt like royalty as I left the Diamond. All the staff stood in a line. Bowed and wished me luck.
The bus had no air conditioning (well, it did but it was blowing warm air rather than cool air) and it was a scorching day.
In addition, the driver seemed to be some sort of mission and didn't stop at all for the full 6 hours. That said the journey was spectacular. It was fairly obvious that there had been significant rain during the last few days. Most of the houses were on stilts but many were inaccessible due to the floodwater. No one appeared particularly bothered. Kids were swimming in it. Blokes were up to their waist, chest and on one occasion neck, casting out fishing nets. I suspect that was to feed themselves rather than for fun.

Siem Reap province of Cambodia, despite being the most visited, is the poorest province in Cambodia. That was apparent as we travelled through the countryside and villages.

It is clearly an agricultural area, flat as a pancake and paddy fields as far as the eye could see. Rice was out to dry on mats outside most houses.

As we neared Siem Reap, a chap with an ID badge got on the bus. He said the bus station was 6km outside the city centre and he was part of the bus company. He would arrange TukTuk transport free to our hotels as it was part of the price. On this ride there were quite a few westerners. I had not spoken to any of them given we hadn't stopped.
I did feel a 'sting' coming on. 'beware of wily strangers!'

Arriving at the bus station it was chaos. There must have been 100 moto and TukTuk drivers chasing the bus, knocking on the windows as it pulled up. Us westerners were told to get our luggage and follow the guy. Even then one opportunist said he was with the 'official'. He wasn't at all. In reality the official wasn't really an official of the bus company. I followed him, gave him the address and got in his TukTuk. That's when the fun starts. They take you to their hotel. I was having none of it and firmly told him where I wanted to go, and that I wanted to go straight there. Of course he touted for tours, massage, ladies and the whole shooting match. I did give him a couple of dollars just for his initiative as masquerading as an official.

The hotel was very smart, surprisingly, perhaps Sarah thinks if she gives me a nice hotel at the start and a nice hotel at the finish, I will forget the dives in-between. Ha ha.... I have a plan to play them at their own game!

This place even has a very nice pool. As we speak I am sitting by the pool sipping a Singapore sling. It's a bit like being on holiday!

Tomorrow I will visiting the temples of Angkor Wat and the surrounding areas.

Not sure what to do for the rest of the afternoon. May even have a swim!


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Location:NH 6,Siem Reap,Cambodia

Friday 15 October 2010

An evening at the Foreign Correspondents Club

TJ picked me up at 7pm and gave me a tour of the city before dropping me off at the quay. He had been a real brick and really introduced me to Phnom Penh.

The riverside part of the city is really developed. It seems strange given the harrowing events of the 70's. The Cambodians seen to have just 'got on with it.'

As I write this, I am sat on the rooftop terrace of the Foreign Correspondents Club having a cheeky beer and nachos, overlooking the Tonal Sap river. There is a jazz band playing in the background, very pleasant. The club seems to be the focal point in Phnom Penh for the ex-pats and, guess what? Foreign Correspondents.

I leave Phnom Penh tomorrow at 7am for the bus ride to the Temples of Angkor Wat and the last stop on this part of the trip.

I did the first 'western' thing in 6 weeks this afternoon. Had a KFC! It's a great deal cheaper than in the UK but it's still a 'box of fat'
Of course, I didn't have a whole box, just a couple of pieces and a small fries. I actually quite enjoyed it. It was better cooked than the meal I had at the hotel last night to be sure and it did make a change from noodles and rice.

Moving down the esplanade from the FCC I tried out a few other hostelries. Most have free WiFi, most are secure, and you given the password when you have a drink, that said they are not that secure, most passwords are 12345.... Or abcde.
My last stop before turning in was the Paddy Rice, very original for an Irish bar!
There were loads of TukTuk drivers outside the bar when I left
Despite that I, of course picked the village idiot. I agreed $3, he wanted $7. Clearly, there is no 'knowledge' test I'm Phnom Penh. This guy would have problems finding his way home.
I even showed him the address, he nodded inanely them set off in completely the wrong direction.
After about 20 mins I tapped him on the shoulder and asked him to pull over
' do you know where you are going!'
' no!'
Once again I showed him the address and showed him where we had just come from.
Off he sets again.
45 minutes later we stopped outside the hotel.
'$7 dollars sir'
' you can bugger right off. Here's the three we agreed.'

As I got into the lift I was joined by a Chinese man, about 60 and a young Cambodian, about 15.
'have you been out for dinner?' he asked.
' yes, you?' I responded
' yes, I'm here on business, the Cambodians are very difficult, cowboys'
Hmm I thought, looking at the young girl.
Double standards.....


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Location:Preah Ang Makhak Vann,,Cambodia

Sightseeing in Phnom Penh

Breakfast was included on the room rate and did everything to confirm that the food here at the hotel is not that good.
TJ my TukTuk driver was waiting for me at 8.45 and there were three items on my agenda. The Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, The Killing Fields and S21 the detention Centre.

The Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda in many ways is similar to the Royal Palace in Bangkok, minus the cheating gypsy bastards that hang around outside trying to rip you off. In my opinion it was nicer albeit not as renovated in some areas. It was very much worth a visit though.























































The next stop was the killing fields of Choeung Ek. The former orchard is now a peaceful memorial to thousands of people executed between 1975 and 1979. A 35 metre memorial has been built in the centre of the orchard and houses some 8,000 skulls and bones of the victims. As you wander through the almost serene gardens there are fragments of clothing coming through the ground on the paths. One can only imagine the horrors that took place. There is a museum that charts the history of the area and a film tells the story. This is only one of many areas that served as an extermination camp. It is a very peaceful place now, people are wandering around in silence. I lit an incense stick and laid some flowers in memory of the dead.















































I was in two minds whether to visit but decided in favour. It is an important part of Cambodia's recent history.

Choeung Ek is about 15km outside the city. From there we headed back into town for the third stop. The infamous Tuol Sleng or S21. Formally Tuol Svay Prey High school it was taken over by Pol Pot's regime and turned into a detention centre and prison. The last stop for many before being taken to Choeung Ek.

The various blocks of the school house photographs of the victims, the cells and implements of torture.

























One very poignant piece of graffiti was been written on the wall.

' When this was a school, nobody died'
' When this was a prison, nobody learned'










































It is hard to imagine what went on here. It is in a residential area, in fact there are houses nearby that overlook the school courtyard and buildings.
One of the blocks has 8 citations from people who used to work in S21. They were interviewed again in 2002 and the ' now and then ' photos accompany the narrative.

A very sobering morning............

I left TJ at the hotel
' You, know Mr Steve, the worst thing is we did it to each other'
I arranged to meet him at 7pm, he was going to take me on a night tour.....
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Location:Monireth Blvd,,Cambodia

Thursday 14 October 2010

Phnom Phenh

My lodgings for the next couple of nights is the Diamond Hotel. Mr Leang (TJ to his friends) had said it was expensive, in relative terms it was, $50 a night.
You could see at some time it had been an opulent hotel. Those days were long gone. Grubby net curtains, wallpaper peeling and a musty smell of damp. It reminded me of one of those diamond rings that is badly in need of being immersed in that solution that suddenly brings it back to life and restores that sparkle once again. I don't think that is going to happen anytime soon.

The staff couldn't have been more charming. Every time I met one they held their hands together and bowed to me. They did make me feel very welcome.

I was on the eight floor overlooking the Monivong boulevard. This gave great views of the city. Phnom Penh is similar to New York in that the roads are based on a grid system. Monivong Boulevard was the equivalent of Broadway, the crappy end, and without most of the attractions.
The weather was pissing down so I decided, rather than go out for dinner I would eat in the restaurant.

I decided to make up for what I had missed at the very start of my trip and had a Singapore sling. I suspect it was a deal cheaper than in the Long Bar in The Raffles Hotel at £1.57. Fuck it, I'll have two!

It's still absolutely pissing down outside. I may still get an opportunity to wear my navy blue poncho if it rains tomorrow.

The meal in the hotel is perhaps the most disappointing I have had in South East Asia. Maybe it was a bad choice, or maybe a bad cook. You can't really do much damage to fried noodles with pork!
I've still not got my appetite back so I'll put it down to that as well !
Still a bit peckish I had some fruit, it came in yet another Singapore Sling.....


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Location:Monivong Blvd,,Cambodia

The Khmer Rouge


Year Zero

After five years of bloody civil war, the Khmer Rouge marched into Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, on 17 April 1975. There was no resistance from the forces of the toppled republican government and the whole city, its population swollen by refugees from the fighting, was relieved that peace had come at last.

That relief was short-lived. On the pretext that they were expecting the USA to bomb Phnom Penh, the Khmer Rouge forced the whole population to evacuate the city on foot. Those who refused were shot, as were hospital patients who were unable to walk. The roads out of the city were clogged with bewildered people, clutching a few belongiongs. Children were separated from their parents; the old and infirm who could not keep up were left to die at the roadside.

The same thing happened in all the cities and towns, and the whole country was effectively turned into a vast forced labour camp. Pol Pot, leader of the Khmer Rouge, was achieving his dream of Year Zero, the return of Cambodia to a peasant economy in which there would be no class divisions, no money, no books, no schools, no hospitals. 'Reactionary religion' was banned in the constitution of January 1976.

Those who had had any connection with the previous regime were eliminated. People who were deemed to have been the lazy elite, in other words the educated and the skilled, were also disposed of. Every vestige of the former corrupt way of life had to be destroyed. Many people tried to conceal their identity or former occupation, but were eventually found out or betrayed. Whole families would be executed. Even babies were killed by smashing their skulls against trees.

Pol Pot summed up the policies of the Khmer Rouge in 1978:

We are building socialism without a model. We do not wish to copy anyone; we shall use the experience gained in the course of the liberation struggle. There are no schools, faculties or universities in the traditional sense, although they did exist in our country prior to liberation, because we wish to do away with all vestiges of the past. There is no money, no commerce, as the state takes care of provisioning all its citizens. The cities have been resettled as this is the way things had to be. Some three million town dwellers and peasants were trying to find refuge in the cities from the depredations of war. We evacuated the cities; we resettled the inhabitants in the rural areas where the living conditions could be provided for this segment of the population of new Cambodia. The countryside should be the focus of attention of our revolution, and the people will decide the fate of the cities.

(Grant Evans and Kelvin Rowley, Red Brotherhood at War, 1984)

S-21

In May 1976 the Khmer Rouge established 'Security Office 21' (S-21) in a former high school at Tuol Sleng (meaning hill of the poisonous tree or hill of guilt) in Phnom Penh. The purpose of S-21 was the interrogation and extermination of those opposed to 'Angkar' (the organisation), which is what the Khmer Rouge regime called itself.

Henri Locard, who has studied and visited many of Cambodia's prisons, believes that there may have been as many as 150 other centres at least the size of S-21 where more than 500,000 Cambodians were tortured and executed.

The Tuol Sleng school buildings were enclosed with a double fence of corrugated iron topped with dense, electrified, barbed wire. The classrooms were converted into prison cells and the windows were fitted with bars and barbed wire. The classrooms on the ground floor were divided into small cells, 0.8m x 2m each, designed for single prisoners, who were shackled with chains fixed to the walls or floors. The rooms on the upper floors were used as communal cells. Here prisoners had one or both legs shackled to iron bars.

Before being placed in their cells, prisoners were photographed, all their possessions were removed and they were stripped to their underwear. They slept on the floor without mats, mosquito nets or blankets.

To do anything, even to alter their positions while trying to sleep or to relieve themselves in the buckets provided, prisoners had first to ask permission from the prison guards. Failure to do so incurred a severe beating. Bathing was irregular, and was carried out by playing a hose on to a roomful of prisoners.

Some prisoners were used for surgical study and training while still alive. Blood was also drawn from prisoners' bodies.

Prisoners' babies brought to S-21 with them were killed by having their heads smashed against trees.

Hundreds of children between the ages of 12 and 17 were rounded up from poor families in the countryside to serve as "special and honest security guards" at S-21.

Although the vast majority of prisoners interrogated and executed at S-21 were Cambodians, other victims were of Vietnamese, Laotian, Thai, Indian, Pakistani, British, United States, Canadian, New Zealand and Australian nationalities.

Those who died at S-21 were taken to Choeung Ek, outside Phnom Penh, to be buried in mass graves. Inmates of S-21 who survived interrogation were taken to Choeung Ek for execution. The burial ground is now a memorial to those who perished under the Khmer Rouge.

The number of prisoners passing through S-21 is estimated as:
1976 2,250 prisoners
1977 2,330 prisoners
1978 5,765 prisoners
These figures do not include the number of children killed at S-21, estimated to be 2,000.
Today Tuol Sleng is a museum of genocide, displaying prison cells, torture instruments, photographs taken by the Khmer Rouge of their victims, and paintings of some of the atrocities perpetrated at S-21.

The killing fields

Evacuees from the cities and towns, described as 'new people', and the peasants, the 'old people', suffered together as virtual slaves, forced to work day and night cultivating rice or working on ill-conceived or abortive irrigation schemes in return for insufficient, communal food rations. Much of the rice that was grown was used to feed the Khmer Rouge; little remained to sustain those who had cultivated it. Deprived of adequate nourishment and health care, and forced to work to the point of exhaustion, hundreds of thousands died from starvation or disease. Many of those who survived still bear the physical and emotional scars of their suffering.

Executions continued. Those to be eliminated were taken out of their village and were typically killed by a blow from a hoe. Some had to dig their own graves before they were killed; the bodies of others were left where they fell. The term killing fields came into popular usage after the release of the film of the same name, which included scenes depicting these events.

At least 1.7 million perished in this hell on earth.

Following the Vietnamese invasion on 25 December 1978, the Khmer Rouge were forced back into the jungles of the north-west and a new government was installed. In the chaos of 1979 the exhausted population suffered further as the limited stocks of rice were consumed and little was grown to replenish them.

The aftermath

After an international relief effort Cambodia was left to attempt to struggle back on to its own feet. The West viewed Vietnam as the aggressor and the Khmer Rouge as Cambodia's legitimate government. The former Soviet Union and its allies gave some assistance, but even this dried up in the late 1980s and early 1990s as communism collapsed in the USSR and Eastern Europe. It was not until after the signing of the Paris Peace Agreement in 1991 that large-scale international development assistance and some business investment began. Only in 1993 was the repatriation of 360,000 Cambodian refugees in Thailand completed.

Pol Pot died in 1998 before he could be arrested and brought to trial.

The trial of Kaing Khek Ieu (also known as Duch), the director of S-21, took place in a joint United Nations-Cambodia tribunal in 2009. During the trial Duch read out an apology, in which he stated, "I would like to clarify the crimes committed at the S-21 prison. I admit my legal responsibility for everything that took place there, especially the torture and killing. I would like to apologise to all surviving victims and their families who were mercilessly killed at S-21. I say that I am sorry now, and I beg all of you to consider this wish. I wish that you would forgive me for the taking of lives, especially women and children, which I know is too serious to be excused. It is my hope, however, that you would at least leave the door open for forgiveness."

While living under an assumed name, Duch became a Christian in 1995. He was tracked down and identified by journalist Nic Dunlop in 1999. "I told Nic Dunlop, 'Christ brought you to meet me,' Duch said at his trial. "I said, 'Before I used to serve human beings, but now I serve God.'"

After being exposed by Nic Dunlop, Duch turned himself in to police and was held in custody for 11 years before coming to trial.

In July 2010 Duch was sentenced to 35 years in prison for war crimes and crimes against humanity. The sentence was reduced by 11 years in compensation for the time Duch spent in pre-trial detention and five years in recognition of his co-operation with the court, so he will spend 19 years in prison.

Four other Khmer Rouge leaders are in prison awaiting trial and a further five suspects may be investigated for crimes against humanity and other offences.



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Location:136,,Cambodia

Another Day, Another Country

I hadn't really eaten much in 24 hours so did the right thing and had something light and no alcohol. This evening, I say a first in South East Asia, a local with body hair, by body hair I refer to chest hair rather than pubic hair. I would have no idea about the latter....
Note to self, look it up on the internet. Do Asian men wax their chests or is it genetic. Can't believe it's the former.
Just have to say, the French colonialism across much of South East Asia left one good legacy. The bread. You could close your eyes and be in a small village in Northern France (except when you opened them you bag and camera would have gone)

Bang on 7.30 I was picked up on foot and led with my backpack through myriad of little alleys to the main boulevard and my carriage to the Kingdom of Cambodia. As we drove through the streets of HCMC, despite the early hour people were already on the move.
The many green areas of Saigon were packed with people doing their morning exercises. Not just the iPod equipped joggers but whole classes of stretching, aerobics even some, albeit primitive gym type equipment made from tubular steel. Even a number of cross trainers. The occupants looked rather more competent than the Forest Gump types that always seem to be having an eppy on the cross trainers back home in Chesterfield.

Leaving Saigon, I reflected on the comparison between HCMC
(Saigons name is now Ho Chi Minh City) and Hanoi. They are both big cities but somehow HCMC seems that little bit ordered than the capital. Of course that is a relative term. What is ordered about a city of 4 million that has 2 million motor scooters zipping in all directions. I would not have missed Hanoi but I want to return to Saigon and spend more time. The Vietnamese, through necessity are very enterprising. All through my stay I have had people trying to sell me anything from a packet of cigarettes to a blow job. Stalls are selling everything at the roadside to the millions of commuters. the local Pho soup, bread, even air from small compressors for the scooters and bikes. I guess that there has to be a culture of enterprise when the average salary is 550USD per year.

The bus is practically empty as we leave the city centre. Once again the occupants are predominantly Asian although that may change as we make our stops along the way.
I had not obtained a visa for Cambodia and the water, land and airport borders offer a Visa on Arrival service much like Laos. The drivers mate collected my passport and I paid him the 25 USD visa fee.
I then settled down to my book. Vietnam - The Ten Thousand Day War.

It is written well and very educational. I'm learning much more about the country and it's history.
The land border crossing was bizarre. It is at Bavet. We got off the bus, got our passports back. Went through passport control where a surly Vietnamese border guard looked at it and threw it back at me. The passport was then handed to a motorcyclist who went the 200 metres across ' No mans land' got the Cambodian visa, then we got back on the bus, up the the border where the passports were handed back and up to the border where it was stamped. The whole process took all of 15 minutes.

A lady got on the bus wanting to change Dong for USD at quite a good rate. I also got a bit of Cambodian currency too. The landscape was noticeably different.mainly flat and looking very waterlogged. The only not Vietnamese on the bus with me was a young Phillopino lad who was on vacation and meeting his friends I'm Phnom Pehn. He gave me some ideas of where to go when I visit. He seemed astounded that I was travelling alone.

The countryside was quite spectacular as we drove further into the kingdom. The farmers houses were set back from the road. Water lilies of different colours and sizes grew there. Hundreds of cows were by the roadside or wallowing in mud. There were also a lot of people fishing in the river.
Every now and then a beautiful pagoda appeared with gardens filled with statues of Buddha.

You can tell that Cambodia is not as wealthy as some of it's neighbours just looking at the infrastructure. The roads are poor, the people are very friendly though.
It is hard to believe such atrocities happened here only 35 years ago.
The bikes were there in abundance again. I saw at least a dozen with dead pigs strapped to the back. I couldn't help thinking about the escapees from yesterday and wondering if the same fate awaited them....

Almost every village has a Cambodian Peoples Party building which is interesting. I'll ask what that is all about.

We crossed the Mekong river a number of times. Mostly by bridge but once by ferry which was interesting. It was packed with vehicles. Some trucks had people sitting on the roof.

As we drove into the capital I looked at the Phillipino lad and we both start laughing. On the bus TV was a Karaoke DVD. It was now playing Christmas carols sung in English in a Vietnamese accent.
As the bus pulled up it was besieged by TukTuk and motor scooter riders looking for a fare. Unusually the motorcyclists where proper full face helmets rather than the lightweight headgear the had in Vietnam.
I asked how much to my hotel and gave the name and road.
'ah very expensive'
' Why I said, it's only on that road over there'
' No he grinned , the hotel is expensive'
That gave me some confidence given the places I had stayed on during the last few weeks.
We agreed a price of 3USD. It's probably better to deal in Dollars here. It seems to be the second, some would argue the first currency. TheTukTuk driver also did tours so on the drive to the hotel we agreed what I wanted to see and also agreed a price of $20. He would pick me up at 9.00 am. He gave me his card in case I wanted to do anything this evening.
The hotel was nice relative to some of the places I'd stayed in. I was on the 8th floor, good views but crap WiFi.
The sky was full of dragonflies. Iridescent greens and blues.
It was like the opening scene from Apocalypse Now.
The next blog is a bit about the history of Cambodia, specifically the Khmer Rouge and Pol Pots regime in the 70's
Skip it if you like. It's quite harrowing.

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Location:Monivong Blvd,,Cambodia