Thursday 27 January 2011

An unusual diving location!


Not for the first time the excesses of the previous evening impacted on my plans. I had set my alarm clock for 4:30. I would be picking Andrew up at his hostel at 5:00am for the onward journey to KK airport Terminal 2 and the 6:50 flight to Tawau.
I opened my eyes at 4:47 so it was a bit of a rush, a quick wash and down to the reception. The taxi actually didn't tip up till after 5:00.
I arranged for the cab to stop off at Borneo Global Backpackers, even showing the taxi driver the map. After 15 minutes of driving around an industrial estate, clearly lost, asked me if I knew where the hostel was. Who's the bloody local here? And a taxi driver to boot! By look more than judgement we eventually found the right place and picked up a rather anxious Andrew. We eventually got to the airport. The taxi fare to the airport is usually a standard 30RM. I handed over 50RM which the driver promptly put in his pocket, 'change?' I asked, the driver expected us to pay an additional 20RM for the small detour despite the fact he had tipped up 20 mins late and had got lost. I disputed this and agreed on 10RM more. Robbing gypsy bastard!

We checked in for our 50 minute flight to Tawau. The late night and excess of the previous evening caught up on me and I slept till we touched down.

We were to be picked up at the airport and taken the 75km or so, to the town of Semporna. The minibus was waiting on another flight so we had time for a much needed coffee.

The road from Tawau airport to Semporna was straight and fast. Each side of the road were plantations of palm trees and for almost the whole journey this plantation was on either side of the road. It is disappointing in some respects to think that this was once tropical rainforest and over recent years had been logged and cleared to provide palm oil plantation.

Once in Semporna we were taken to the Seaventures office, paid our money and then went for a wander in the town in search of some local rum. (will I ever learn?)
While Malaysia is largely a Muslim country, most of the places have a mix of Chinese, Malay and Indian. Semporna seemed much more Muslim and consequently a shortage of alcohol outlets, we did eventually find a supermarket that sold it and purchased a couple of half bottles each, a relative bargain at 5RM each. Back to the Seaventures office and a 45 minute ride by speedboat to our home for the next three nights, a decommissioned oil rig, just off Mabul island.

The rig is a massive structure. It was operational in Panama but in 1999 it began it's journey via Singapore to Malaysia. It is a little quirky, given the approach to conservation around Sipidan that this huge chunk of metal had been allowed in the area. That said, it is a very novel dive centre.












As we arrived at the rig we disembarked the speedboat onto the lift that would take us up to the main deck. Once the formalities of checking dive cards, registering and having the guide of the main areas we were taken to our rooms. Given some of the accommodation I had stayed at during the past 6 months, it was more than adequate. Complete with en-suite and hot water.

The package we had bought included accommodation, four days and three nights. Andrew had negotiated two days diving on Sipidan. The rest of the dives would be on the two other islands . There was also unlimited diving on the house reef underneath the rig.

The first dive was to be a navigation dive under the rig. Our dive master was a young Filipino girl. Once kitted up we got on the lift and descended into the water. There was a bit of a swell and current as we jumped in.

Prior to arriving there had been a nasty cold going around and I had picked it up. One of the problems this can cause is the inability to equalise your ears. This is very important as a equilibrium of pressure is needed to avoid bursting ones eardrums. Unfortunately my ears were having none of it and firmly refused to equalise. The result was I had to abort the dive. The dive shop on the rig did sell ear drops which can often help. I decided that I would leave the diving for the day, use the ear drops and some decongestion tablets I had brought and have an early night.

The food on the rig was great. After weeks of rice and noodles it was a perfect opportunity. However, another disadvantage of the cold was a lack of appetite. I retired early for the night hoping a good nights sleep may help.

The rig had accommodation for around 100 people plus 40 staff. It was net peak season in January and at any one time which were were there the total number of guests must have been around 20.












I must have slept for a good 10 hours, unfortunately on waking I felt absolutely crap. The cold appeared to have taken a turn for the worse and I was now suffering from a streaming nose as well as a thick head. Our diving today was on Sipidan. My original intention was to go there and perhaps do a bit of snorkelling. After a cup of coffee I did feel a little better so opted to take my gear to Sipidan and give it another go. The island was about 35 minutes from the rig. There are very limited permits issued for diving off the island. The agenda was to arrive on the island, register and then go straight out to a dive site for dive #1.









Once again the ears let me down. That said, I did snorkel the site and saw massive green turtles, a shoal of bump head parrot fish, some the size of a coffee table. At one stage I got a bit of a scare when a juvenile White tip reef shark actually swam between by legs. All was not lost....

Once back to the boat we once again headed to the island and breakfast of noodles, sandwiches and 3 in 1 coffee.
The second dive was about 60 minutes later, this time I had more success and despite some discomfort I managed to do a 50 minute shallow dive hanging at between 8 and 14 metres. The visibility was so good I actually got a great helicopter view and probably saw more than most. I didn't see anything I hadn't seen before, there was just a lot more of it. Sharks, White and Black tips, turtles, a huge shoal of barracuda and the smaller fish. A great dive.

Back to the island again, another coffee and a short break. The island of Sipidan is actually guarded by the armed forces. I'm not sure if this is against the Philippines, the Indonesians (the island has had disputed sovereignty in the past) or the illegal fishing. Whatever the reason it seemed to necessitate a mounted AK49 and about 20 armed soldiers.









The final dive of the morning was a little disappointing in that I could only get to 5-8 metres. Once again though, the helicopter view gave me a good opportunity to see loads of wildlife. This included a shoal of jack fish.

After the third dive we headed back to the rig for lunch. No more diving for me, three more for Andrew. The new nickname of 'marine boy ' is well justified.









The local band, 'the sea gypsies' played over the evening. Nick and Pauline, a couple from Surrey had arrived during the day. They had been on the road for around three months and as keen divers had decided to spend a few days on the rig. We all exchanged experiences over dinner but once again I decided to get an early night in the hope that I could shake this damn cold off and get in the water again.

Later in the afternoon a few of us ventured to Mabul. This was a small island, part taken up by resorts and part taken up my a local village. It was fascinating. Extreme opulence only yards from extreme poverty. In interesting contrast. I could certainly think of worse places to be..








Our third day was also on Sipidan. At 5 in the morning I felt much better. Unfortunately, this did not translate into a good days diving. On the first dive I could only descend to about 4 metres. Because the dive was planned for 28 metres, I decided it would be best to abort the dive. I attracted Andrew and DM then went up. I felt that rough I didn't even snorkel.
We left the rig on the fourth day at lunchtime. I Must have been unwell, I never even opened the brandy!

Andrew had 27 hours 'no fly' on his dive computer so we were planning to stay in Tawau. We got a transfer from Semporna to Tawau and the driver kindly dropped us off at the cheap hotel. 38RM for the room. I visited the local pharmacy and got some medication for the cold which was now streaming. Yet another early night!

Our flight to KK left at 1.35 the next day. Ironically, the taxi ride to the airport cost the same as the accommodation. It was a good 30k away from the town.
.

We arrived at KK at 2.00pm and hopped in another 30RM cab fir the short journey to Global Backpackers. This is the one big disadvantage of Malaysia. The taxis are quite expensive and there is no alternative (like the tuktuk in Thailand or the Tricycle in the Philippines)

Jono was still at the same place he'd been feeling a bit off colour for the last couple of days so had spent his time sorting out the itinerary for the next few month. The cost of a bed in Global Backpackers was just 12RM. The only disadvantage was that it was some distance from the main part of town. A great Indian was just a few hundred yards away. I delicious Roti, Nasi Penang which was fried chicken rice in an omelette and a couple of cokes.

My flight back to Miri was at 9.00 the following morning so I was not too late in bed. Yet another alcohol free night.

All in all, despite not being able to dive it was a great few days. A bit above budget but great experience nevertheless......





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Location:Adjacent to Mabul Island, Celebes Sea, Borneo, Malaysia

Thursday 20 January 2011

Diving in Sipidan

One of the guys I had been travelling with in the Philippines had suggested doing a spot of diving in Sipadan. Sipadan is recognised as one of the best dive sites in the world. Andrew had done a lot of work in the background approaching various dive companies to obtain quotes for a package that included some time actually in Sipadan. In the interests of conservation the relevant authority issues a limited number of permits. These permits are like rocking horse shit..... Very hard to come by.

Not only did Andrew secure permits for two days diving, he also got a very attractive rate and the dive accommodation was on a converted oil rig......

Ding Dong........

On the 20th January, I headed up to Kota Kinabalu to meet Andrew and Jono. Jono was going to hang about KK while Andrew and I took the short flight to Tawau.

After checking in at a KK backpackers hostel I met up with the lads for a few drinks. My intention was to get a reasonably early night as we needed to be up at 4.30 to catch the air Asia flight.

The best laid plans of mice and men. It got really messy and I ended up staggering into my pit at 2.30


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Location:Jalan K.K. Bypass,Kota Kinabalu,Malaysia

Sunday 16 January 2011

A weekend in the jungle

Just before Christmas we were all invited to a Birthday Party in Miri, it was the second Birthday of the son of a guy that works for Billy.
At the party I met Byron's mother, a very smart Malaysian lady and during our conversation about my travels she mentioned Bario. This is the most remote village in Sarawak and is well worth a visit, it is only accessible by plane though, some 50 minutes from Miri.
When I got back I 'googled' Bario and quite quickly decided that given how relatively close it was, I would like to visit. I discussed the possibility of taking Ross with me and it was agreed. We were to visit at the beginning of January.

Bario is the unofficial capital of the Kelabit Highlands. Bario (population 900) is isolated from the rest of the world and you can only reach it by plane. It takes one hour by air from Miri on a MAS Twin Otter 19-seater aircraft. Despite its geographical barrier, there are many infrastructures such as an airport, internet access and computer services, police station, two schools, churches, clinic, shops and various offices manned by skeletal staff. The children recently started playing computer games and doing their English lessons on PCs.

The Kelabit Highlands are on a picturesque flat plateau in the north-eastern corner of Sarawak.
It is 1,000m to 1,100m above sea level. All roads on the plateau lead to Bario.

The Kelabit Highlands is the homeland of the Kelabit. This is one of the smallest ethnic groups in Sarawak. Like other inland groups, the Orang Ulu all live in longhouses, although they may vary slightly in design from group to group.
"Orang Ulu" is a collective term meaning "people of the interior". It is used to describe a number of inland peoples including the Kelabit.
Approximately there are still 5000 people, but there are about 1800 people living in 355 families at the Highlands.
The others have moved elsewhere in Malaysia; younger people have left for large cities to further their studies, while others married outside their community and never returned. Many have landed well-paid jobs overseas and have settled there.

The Kelabit have their own language, although most of them have learned to speak English or Malay.
However, its remoteness has been no barrier to locals, some of whom have become academic high achievers. The Kelabit have one of the highest ratio of professionals. Among them are an Associate Professor, medical specialists, lawyers, engineers and corporate high flyers who have travelled widely.
The Kelabit live in the highlands at the head of the Baram River, until recently a very inaccessible area. The Kelabit are also notable for being very tall and large of build, and they built many megalithic (large stone) monuments.
Over a century ago, the Kelabits were involved in head hunting raids, not so much for ritual purposes but as a means to prove one’s courage, bravery, guts or valency, and to get even with their enemy. However, things have changed. Today among other things, the Kelabits are well-known for the friendliness and hospitality. The Bario Highlands were first visited by Australian Christian missionaries many decades ago.
The Kelabit embraced Christianity during the 1940s through the influence of Guru Paul, also known as Nimang Tepun.

There is very little to do there other than walk. I decided that it would be a good idea to take my 10 year old nephew, Ross out there for a weekend out in the wilds.

There is really only one option to get there, fly. So on Friday we arrived at Miri Airport for the 50 minute flight on the MAS rural air service. The airport at Bari is very small with a tiny runway. Consequently the only plane that can land there are the really small ones.

As we were checking in we handed over our luggage and had ourselves weighed. A really friendly Bario got chatting, asked if we had anywhere to stay (she had a home stay that took in guests) as I had booked our accommodation we did not need to take her up on the offer. Her next question was to ask if we would check in some of her luggage as the limit per person was 10k and we only had 8k between us. I agreed. It only dawned on me later that this was probably not the thing to do remembering the 'has anyone tampered with your luggage or given you anything to carry on the aircraft' question we are all so familiar with.

Drug runner or aiding and abetting terrorists...... I could see the headlines.....

The plane we were intending to travel on was the De havialland twin otter. By far the smallest aircraft I had ever travelled on. Ross was sat just behind the pilot and could have read the instrument panel.



















I'm not the best flyer in the world and did get a little anxious when the pre flight check resulted in the engines being switched off and a whole army of technicians coming over to the plane. This actually happened twice before the pilot turned around and said that the plane was very old and they were having technical issues... I was obviously filled with confidence. We all (all 8 of us) got out of the aircraft and headed back to the terminal building. After a short wait of 30 minutes another 'twin otter' arrived, we paraded out, got in and we were off again.















It was a new plane (or newer) only 8 of us on it plus cargo which consisted of provisions from Miri. Including a few cases of coke.

It was a short, 50 minute flight to Bario. Sitting just behind the pilot and watching every manoeuvre was fascinating. The views were spectacular too. Crossing over the jungle hills gave some brilliant views, it was a bit hairy as we came into land and we got a pilots view of the runway on our steep decent.

Bario airport, as expected was tiny, there is quite a lot of construction going on close by as the village is in the middle of a big project to install concrete roads in the actual village and connect a number of the outlaying villages. This will probably mean that in years to come Bario will be less reliant on the numerous 4wd vehicles.

As we came into the 'terminal' building, I had to smile as we walked past the 'control tower' the signage was written on a piece of cardboard and pinned to the door.















Ross and I were staying at one of the few lodges in Bario that catered for visitors and hardy trekers. I asked at the counter how we would get to our guest housevand was told that 'Douglas' the owner was on his way. Sure enough, 15 minutes later a big 4WD pick up arrived and after introductions we clambered in. The De Plateau lodge was only 2km from the airport but such was the state of the unmade roads due to the recent rain, that it took about 20 minutes to pick our way through the ruts in the mud.

We arrived, had a drink and familiarised ourselves with our home for the next couple of nights. Quite spookily, the first thing I saw in the very spacious lounge area were two table cloths pinned on the wall depicting Derbyshire, both had the local sights such as the crooked spire in Chesterfield, Chatsworth House, Matlock, Bakewell etc.... It is uncanny that I have travelled halfway around the world to what is the most remote village in Borneo and see tea cloths from my home town. Not one, but two......

Ross and I decided that we would walk into town to check things out and try and get something to eat. We had brought along 4 pot noodles, just in case. Douglas was going into town so we got a lift, planning to do a bit of investigating then walk back.

In the centre of the village is a small area with a few shops and eating areas. I quite fancied trying out the famous 'Bario Rice' but unfortunately the place we stopped at was right out so we had to settle for something not dissimilar to 'Pot Noodles' it was quite tasty. Everyone we met in the village was friendly, saying hello, some stopping for a chat. One particular lady suggested we walk up the hill to the village art gallery. We followed her advice, it was not disappointing. Stephen Baya was a local artist and had taken full advantage of a government sponsored initiative to introduce ICT into this remote village. The initiative had brought broadband Internet connection to Bario and Stephen was using this to sell his artwork. He had sold throughout the world.

The art gallery was facinating, using acrylics on canvas, Stephen has quite a portfolio. Together with his Danish wife they also ran a guesthouse. Rather than the traditional guest book, Stephen had provided each of his guests with a 10 x 4 inch piece of wood on which they were invited to design a piece of art and add a few words reflecting on their stay in Bario. Very inventive and effective. I chatted for a while and told Stephen that I also sold art on the Internet. We swapped web sites. When I finally get home I may suggest we have reciprocal links from our respective sites as our work is very similar.

After our little expedition we headed back to our lodge. The De Plataue was about 2pm out of town along a dirt road, just as we arrived the heavens opened. Lucky!

The De Plataue lodge had a guest book, Ross and I spent a couple of hours reading through it. Without exception everyone commented on the excellent hospitality and food. I had asked one of the sons ofbthe owners if we would be able to have dinner, "yes" was the answer, "when?" I asked, "don't know was the reply. We were both getting a little hungry. At 7.00pm Douglas turned up and at 7.30 we sat down to some chicken in a sauce and rice with 'jungle roots' it was OK but just OK.

Quite exhausted we were both in bed by 8.00.

I had asked Douglas if it would be possible to hire a guide to take us out the following day. He kindly organised that and we were to be met at the lodge the following morning. I had no idea if breakfast would be provided. We got up at 7.30 and sat around for a while. There was no sign of life so Ross, feeling pangs of hunger tucked into one of the four pot noodles that we had brought with us in case of an emergency. As he was just finishing the last mouthful Douglas appeared with a plate of rice and eggs together with some rather unpleasant cake that tasted although it had been made with jungle mud.

Our guide arrived at 9.00 and I ran through what we wanted to do during the day. Lian organised a brilliant day, the roads were shit as it had rained most of the night. This might alter what we had planned to do due to the muddy roads.

As we left the lodge a van with 6 small dogs in the back passed us. Lian explained the dogs were used to hunt Wild Boar. Following the van was a 7th dog, it had obviously overlaid and missed the pick up. As the van sped into the distance the dog was chasing it, not making great progress but not giving up.....

As we reached town Lian explained there was a Sunday Market going on. This, despite the fact it was Saturday. There was a lot of peep around, quite a lot we had already met on our walk the previous day or at the airport. Everyone said help and we had a few photographs taken.
One of the traditions on Market day is the 'Poco Poco' dancing, various people had pledged money and the idea was that the village 'elder' offered money for people to stand in line outside the Market and take part in what can only be described as a Bario version of 'line dancing' quite few of the locals took advantage of the 5 ringet offer and very quickly there were around 30 locals dancing in the with big wide smiles.














Moving on through the village Lian gave us a running commentary on everything we say. It was great. He was clearly very knowledgeable and wanted to share that with us. His English was perfect and he did his utmost to ensure that we had a great time.

Bario is the most remote village in Sarawak. In the last couple of years a road has been cut through the jungle to Miri, it's an arduous 15 hours, I had noticed that most of the vehicles in Bario were new 4WD. This is down to the road. Prevously vehicles had to be flown in after being partly dismantled. Lian suggests the building of the road may spoil the village, my view is that in many respects it probably already has. Progress is not always a good thing!

As we were treking through the rapidly drying out roads we came across the oldest man in Bario .This 97 year old going was in search of his water buffalo which had escaped during the night. He was equipped with his rope lassoo. I'm really not sure what he was going to do with it when he found it. He could barely stand..













Our next stop was a Long house. The long house is typical of village accommodation. As the name suggests it is a terrace of houses an extended family. With a large corridor down one side, the living quarters in the middle and kitchen areas in the back. All covered with a single roof.

While I was researching the trip i read that there were a significant number of high achievers. In the in one we visited outside every single house there were photos of people at graduation ceremonies. Every house had a person who had gained a degree, masters or Phd. The minister for immigration, the guy who brought Malaysian airlines from the brink and a number of significant others has lived in Bario. Interestingly the Chief Gynochologist, from Bario was also the guy who led the singing at Emily's christening.













On the way back we visited the local school and then stopped at the market for a soft drink before heading back to the lodge. It was a brilliant day, made so by the expertise of Lian.

Once back we chilled, read our books and Ross munched his way through another Pot Noodle, I'm so glad we brought them.

Dinner that evening was a Bario speciality, braised wild boar. It was very tasty too. Once agin served with rice and jungle vegetables from the 'jungle supermarket'

It was another early night. Up at 8.00 in the morning to breakfast of chips, (of the jungle variety) eggs and beans.

Douglas and his wife gave us a lift to the airport. Lian was also there to see us off. We also saw Stephen the artist and his wife who were meeting other artists from Miri who were staying with them for a painting and trekking holiday.

Departing on time we arrived back in Miri. Finlay came running across the airport and flung his arms around me.

"uncle steve" he said, "you smell like an animal"

Forgot to say, there was no running water so not only had we not had a shower, we had not had a wash in three days.

All good clean fun..........




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Location:Bario, Kelabit Highlands, Sarawak, Malaysia.

Wednesday 12 January 2011

The Godfather....


I have been asked to be the Godfather for Emily. The ceremony was booked to be on the 9th January. What a super start to the New Year. On the 6th we attended the church to sort things out with the local Pastor at Krokop evangelical church. After a brief meeting it was all agreed and we were to be at the church on Sunday for 10.00am.
Sunday came, Lesley and Billy had invited about 40 of their friends for the event, including quite a few children. The service was fantastic. Forget the old fashioned hymns that most of us remember. This was proper 'Happy Clappy' stuff. Most started with the feet tapping, then clapping and by the end of the first hour almost everyone was for it full bore singing along like 'gud uns'.
There was a four piece band playing and it was notebooks a rock concert than a traditional service.















Half way through the service we had the 'child dedication' Lesley, Billy, Emily and Charlotte (the Godmother) and myself had to get up on the stage and commit to bringing Emily up in the right and proper way.



A sermon followed then the baptism of three church members. This involved the full immersion in water. A screen was pulled back and revealed what can only be described as a small swimming pool. A cleric got into the pool and one by one the three youngsters walked into the pool, were blessed and then dunked in the water.
It was a great experience, made even more special by the friendliness of the congregation. I may well go again!!!!



After the service we all went back to the Boat Club where a buffet lunch had been provided and 40 bottles of champagne. Given there were 40 guests (about 15 of them being under then legal age to consume alcohol) that left the distinct possibility of a messy afternoon.

Needless to say, I overdid it. I ended up going into town with Nick, the assistant head at the camp school, getting absolutely smashed on Champers, then wine, then beer. I remember doing a 45 minute set of duets in a local Miri Karaoke bar. Having some food at a local eatery and getting home at turned three. Not wanting to wake anyone up, I slept in the garden, managed to convince two local police officers that I wasn't a peeping tom or a wannabe burglar and finally sleeping on a trampoline. I got bitten about 50 times.

I was woken up at 6 by the rain, took refuge on a sun lounger under the verandah and finally got in the house at 7.30.

Certainly a night to remember!!!!



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Location:Jalan Pantai,Miri,Malaysia

Merry Christmas

Christmas was a chilled affair. Our real Christmas was in Miri on the 15th December. It made much more sense. Waking up on the 15th it was just like Christmas. The house was all dressed up and we had put lights on the verandah, the outside posts and also dressed the trees. This was my third Christmas in the heat. Once in Queensland, once in the Maldives but I still couldn't get used to the fact it wasn't cold and damp.

Just prior to that I was invited to another Christmas dinner at Marg and John's house, they are Kiwi friends of Lesley and Billy. A great evening from what I can remember. Thanks guys!

Christmas day was great, presents in the morning, the excited kids as they ripped open the wrapping paper. Lunch was the traditional turkey with all the trimmings. A boozy day with the traditional sitting by the sofa watching TV after lunch. Happy Days......

On the 17th, we left Miri for the 2 hour flight to KL. There is no direct fight from Miri to Depensar, the main airport of Bali so we had to look forward to a full day of travelling with the kids. It went surprisingly smoothly though, helped no, doubt by the fact that we had paid a few extra Ringet for priority boarding and 'hot seats'. All in all it was no big drama (if you exclude some woman screaming to the rest of the plane that the engine had just blown up as we landed in a torrential storm and a massive flash of lightening). Of course nothing of the sort had happened!!!

We did taken the opportunity to get of 'duty free'. Three bottles of spirits and 200 fags. That should see us right..

Arriving in Depensar you need to get a Visa on Arrival for 25USD. Paying in Malaysian Ringet you really get ripped off and the visa is not as pretty as the counterparts in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia, its just a normal bloody stamp. Maybe together UK should introduce something similar to get us out of our hole!!!









We did get picked up at the airport and ferried to the Villa in Sanur. It was loverly - quick bite to eat then bed. I have never seen rain like it, the villa had it's own pool and was fully enclosed. By midnight the pool was overflowing.

The break was great, my foot was still giving me some problems. A visit to the doctor before I left confirmed that the infection had gone but there was quite a lot of soft tissue damage and scarring which still made it painful to walk. Non the less, that did not stop Ross and I having a great day in the water park. The were some pretty hairy rides and it was pissing it down most of the day but at least it was warm rain.

I really liked the Place we were staying. The management in it's wisdom had commissioned some fairly serious construction work so the entrance was like a construction site. Billy successfully negotiated a 1000USD discount and a free meal as a result. Breakfast was served in the villa each morning. We spent our 0 days relaxing by the pool when it wasn't raining.









I took Ross White water rafting, perhaps not the brightest idea given all the recent rain. We had a great time, the two of us and a guide in the one raft. The last rapid was in fact a drop down a 6 foot waterfall. I will never forget my panic as Ross actually bounced out of the raft as we hit the water. Fortunately he was holding on, ending up in an heap at the bottom of the raft......

To get to the restaurant for lunch we needed to walk up about 300 steps. I'm not as fit as I used to be so we took it steady, very steady. At the top Ross went a funny shade and started to hyperventilate. Fuck, I thought he was going to have a seizure. Instinctively my diving 'first aid' came in handy and within a few minutes everything was under control. I did give me a 'moment' though. Ross was fine and polished off a good meal for lunch.

Finlay is not keen on holidays and from the minute we arrived he was asking 'how many sleeps till we go home'.
It was a great break. Bali is a beautiful island and the people are really friendly.
As normal, good things have to come to an end...

The trip home was, like the journey here, via KL. At the airport we needed to pay yet again, the departure tax was about £10. I paid in Indonesian money as I didn't want to get stung yet again with the unattractive exchange conversion rates. Billy decided to pay his and the families in sterling, but Scottish sterling.... He did spend some time persuading the guy at immigration that the money was legal tender. The departure tax tickets were issued and we were on our way.

60 minutes later, just as we were about to go through into the departure lounge the same guy came running up. He had tried to exchange the Scottish notes at a number of the various money changers in the airport and they had all declined. The tax was eventually paid in Singapore dollars.

The flight back to KL was uneventful. We pigged ourselves out on a KFC and then went to board the 7.15 flight back to Miri.

No chance, after a number of false starts, one which involved actually getting onto the aircraft, we were told to disembark as the plane was very broken.... We ended up in a hotel about 20km from the airport for the night and flew back at 10.00 the following day.

Great time!




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Location:Sanur, Bali, Indonesia