Sunday 14 November 2010

Show me the way to San Jose

We docked at Roxas at about 6.00pm.The Lonely Planet described it as 'non descript' . Myself, I think that is a very charitable way of describing it. The port was a little out of town but we ascertained that there was a bus to our planned destination at 6.30 the following morning so set about finding somewhere to stay for the night.
All four of us together with our luggage piled into a single TukTuk. The Lonely Planet had a couple of cheap suggestions but we beat our record with a £1.43 room. We all shared of course but it was only for one night.
Along the main road in Roxas were a number of 'Cafe' types serving local food. It was actually quite nice. We sat in while it rained stair rods outside then made our way back, stopping on the way for some local vodka and sprite. Bed by 12.00 ready for an early start and the 96km trip across the island by Jeepney to San Jose.
Well what a trip. The jeepney was leaving at 6.30 in the morning. When we arrived at the Petrol station the rather 'old' looking vehicle.






The jeepney was already full to bursting as we arrived. Sabi and I got in the front while Liz and Kipp jumped in the back. There was little room and the seats were no more than benches. This was going to be a hard and long four hours. There were all sorts of cargo, rice, fruit, vegetables. We were only missing the chicken and goats. Just behind me was a huge bag of dried fish which reeked. After a quite heavy night of beer and cheap vodka last night it wasn't the most welcome company and had me wrenching. Sabi came to the rescue with Tiger Balm. I took a finger full and pasted it under my nose. Much better....
We set off in the Jeepney at 7.00am. We had been on the road no longer than five minutes when we turned off into what looked like a muddy field where there was a market. Having stopped the driver and his two assistants loaded yet more fruit and veg onto the top of the vehicle. 30 minutes later we were off again. Not before a really camp guy complete with a bob haircut and a clutch bag minced across the market screaming, climbed into the back and plopped himself next to Kipp. Very amusing.

The first couple of hours was fine. Tarmac roads and beautiful scenery. Mountains on one side and coast on the other side. This isn't going to be too bad I said to Sabi. I was expecting unmade roads......
I spoke too soon . After a short stop we got back in the bus. By now there were people sitting on top and hanging from the side. A few Kilometres later we hit the bad stuff. Knee deep mud and a hill. There were several vehicles stuck already. We got out of the jeepney and walked up the hill in the blazing heat while chains were put on the wheels. On the way up we saw a number of vehicles almost tip over, most were full of cargo and people. One actually came down the hill sideways. With relief out driver did a super job and got to the top in one go. We all boarded again and we were off. Apparently there were another two stretches of road which were going to be similar.



The roads in the Philippines serve two purposes. Apart from the obvious they are also used to dry the recent crop of rice. Mile after mile of tarmac road is laid out with the rice which once dried is bagged and picked up. There is obvious poverty in the town and villages but everyone has a smile. Every time we went through a village the fits would shriek and wave at the passing bus.
The Philippines are really into cock fighting (of the bird variety) at one stage we actually had one on the top of the truck. At one village I was speaking to a chap who introduced me to his prize cock. It was fighting the following day. It did look a majestic creature. "will it win" I asked. "Of course" was the response" , as though it was a really stupid question.

The second of the challenges was a little similar to the mud road we had encountered earlier in the journey. Although it was on the flat some of the mud was almost waist deep and once again there were a number of vehicles stuck on the quarter mile stretch. They were attaching a winch to trees at the side of the road and inch by inch pulling the vehicle towards the dry road.
A DHL courier was in The front of of our Jeepney. He suggested that it would take at least 3 hours. It was hot, very hot so after walking the half mile towards the dry road at the other side of the quagmire I found a log and started to have a small power nap.
I was surprised when, only 30 minutes later around the corner came our carriage. Excellent driving....

The rest of the journey was pretty straightforward and we arrived in San Jose just 30 minutes late. And all for a couple of quid!!!
San Jose is perhaps the largest town in Mindoro Occidental. After arriving we found a hotel, it was called the Mindoro Plaza. Once again very cheap but clean. One thing that was noticeable in the smaller town was the lack of good food. We struggled but eventually found something that was ok.
We needed to travel on to a the fishing village Sabalayan. It was about another 70 miles north.
The Rough Guide suggested that San Jose was a good place to stock up with cash as ATM's were few and far between further north. It's not big and it's not clever but we chose to ignore that advice.......



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Location:San Jose Mindoro Occidental Philippines

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