Saigon

I like Saigon much more than Hanoi, much more.
It's still busy but just not as busy. True, it doesn't have some of the character of Hanoi, but it seems a nicer place. My schedule is tight in the last city of my Vietnam tour. I have a trip on the Mekong tomorrow and then leave on the early bus to Phnom Penh at seven the following morning. I have my map planned out. The Independence Palace, The War Remnants Museum, the Cathedral of Notre Dame and the Ben Thanh Market.
I left my key at reception? Mrs Angry snarled at me, god, she has a face like a slapped arse, I really want to say something to her but don't.

I had an omelette and coffee (the best coffee I have had in Vietnam) then headed off. I took a rickshaw driven by a bloke who was at least twice my age. At times I wanted to get out and push. There is a element of the surreal when you are riding round a roundabout and there are literally thousands of bikes and numerous cars heading straight for you, honking their horns. Riding up the wide boulevards of central Ho Chi Minh City, I felt like Miss Saigon. It was all I could do to stop myself waving to the pedestrians as we passed them.

The independence or Reunification palace as it is now known stands prominent in it's gated grounds. Time has stood still here since 30 April 1975, a slightly scary thought. The striking modern architecture and the slightly eerie feeling you get as you walk through its deserted halls make Reunification Palace one of the most fascinating sights in HCMC. The building was once the symbol of the South Vietnamese government, which hundreds of thousands of Vietnamese and 58,183 Americans died trying to save.


















On the morning of 30 April 1975, the 43-hour-old government of South Vietnam sat quietly on the second floor of this grand building - then called the Independence Palace - waiting to transfer power to the Northern forces who were crashing through the wrought iron gates below. 'There is no question of you transferring power,' they were told by a Viet Cong officer. 'You cannot give up what you do not have.' The building took its current form in 1966 after it had been partially destroyed in an attack by South Vietnam leader Diem's own air force (they really hated him, it seems). Now, the building is a magnificent example of 60s architecture - airy and open, with spacious chambers and tasteful modern decorations. The building is still used for official functions. The most interesting section of the Reunification Palace is the basement - a network of tunnels and rooms, including a war room and a telecommunications room. One of the tunnels stretches all the way to Gia Long Palace, now known as the Revolutionary Museum.







































My rickshaw driver had fixed a price with me so told me he would wait outside. That was very charitable i thought, fully expecting that he would rob my eyes later.
My next stop was the War Remnants museum.
I left my rickshaw driver here and paid him off, and yes, he did rip me off. I'm pleased I didn't get out and push now!

There is no doubt that this museum shows a rather one sided view of the Vietnamese conflict. It focuses on the American and French involvement in the struggle against the North. Some of the photos are truly mind numbing, in fact, after wandering through the jail area and the first floor I decided that I had seen enough. The photographs depicting the atrocities were quite upsetting to say the least. True, they were only showing the war from the North Vietnamese side and you could be pretty sure that the contra side to the debate is just as unacceptable. It does however make you stop and think. A smiling US marine with the decapitated heads of Vietnamese in each hand hardly sounds in line with Geneva Convention!

Outside in the courtyard are displays of the instruments of war, tanks, fighter planes, helicopters including the famous chinook. There is also a display of the various ordnance that was used including the infamous 'daisy cutter' all in all it was all rather disturbing.















Outside there was a smart chap selling stuff. You do get used to being ripped off in these places with pedlars and beggars. This guy was selling books, all to do with the war. He was different in that he had no lower arms and was missing a leg and eye. He was one of the many victims of the aftermath of the war, the millions of unexploded bombs that kill and maim even today. Not just in Vietnam but also Laos which as the unenviable claim to fame as being the most bombed country in the world per capita. He had stepped on a mine when he was eight years old and was maimed for life.




















I have to confess, before coming to Vietnam I knew about the war, who didn't? But had only seen it through the tv coverage and the likes of 'apocalypse now' and '' ' ' 'Saving Private Ryan' beyond that I didn't have much idea around why and the history. I bought a book from this chap, 'Vietnam - The Ten Thousand Day War'
Leaving the war museum the heavens opened. So much so that I had to abandon the rest of my plan. Instead, I found a quite cafe and started reading what is a very interesting and informative book.

Before I knew it, the rain had stopped and it was getting dark. I had been there nearly three hours. I headed back, missing my way but eventually finding my way to the hotel. The street where I am staying seems to be the happening place. Unfortunately I have a touch of the Asian tummy and after some medical advice take a couple of antibiotics and a couple of immodium.

I want to feel ship shape for the Mekong Delta trip tomorrow so, given I had very little sleep last night I aim to skip dinner and have an early night......


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Location:Bui Vien,Ho Chi Minh City,Vietnam