Walking out onto the balcony about 10 kids looked out of a window opposite, curious. I waved and got 10 beaming smiles and waves back.
I have a nice feeling about this place!
The ancient town of Hoi An, 30 km south of Danang, lies on the banks of the Thu Bon River. Occupied by early western traders, Hoi An was one of the major trading centers of Southeast Asia in the 16th century.
Hoi An has a distinct Chinese atmosphere with low, tile-roofed houses and narrow streets; the original structure of some of these streets still remains almost intact. All the houses were made of rare wood, decorated with lacquered boards and panels engraved with Chinese characters. Pillars were also carved with ornamental designs.
In the light of day my initial thoughts about the hotel are confirmed . It really is a nice place. Breakfast of boiled eggs and coffee - the coffee in Vietnam is pretty ghastly, if you ask for milk it comes with sickly sweet condensed milk. It's a bit like sludge. The plans for the day are to find a laundry, I am on my last pair of underpants and my shorts could stand up on their own....
I also have no T- shirts left. I have since been told the ones I bought in Chiang Mai are nightshirts.. No one will know!
Looking on the map, it is only a short walk into the old town.
The receptionist was very helpful, they have a laundry and the can do my washing, $1 per kilo. Deal done, the also have a shuttle that takes you into town when ever you want and will also bring you back again. Ding Dong!
A guy on reception asked where I was from, the South East Asia radar had told me that nearly always, when asked by a local, it is a precursor to getting something from you.
' England'
' London ?'
' No, Chesterfield, in the middle '
' Oh, is it cold there ?
' It will be getting cold '
' How cold? '
' Sometimes below zero '
' You will need a winter coat, I know a very good tailor'
' Very good' I said, ' Very good'
We laughed and I went upstairs to get my laundry.
I deposited my washing at reception. Shuttle to me suggests bus, no, it was a moped. I donned my hard hat, jumped on the back and was on my way. Of course, there is a catch, the drop off was the drivers auntie who has a tailors on the high street.....
I have got quite adept at saying no in the last few weeks, always with a smile.
Hoi An is quite famous for it's tailors, they are about every second shop.
The old town is quite charming, a little touristy but charming all the same. Down to the quayside by the river are lots of art shops, tailors, jewellers and cafes and restaurants. It is a foodies paradise. Quite a few of the restaurants actually run Vietnamese cooking classes. Full day or half day including going to the market to buy your own fresh produce. I may even give it a go.
As an UNESCO world heritage site Hoi An has a long history, the town offers a $5 ticket where you can visit five of the 18 interesting places. Really good value.
After a wander around, a glass of fresh pineapple juice ( it was quite humid. Much more so than Hanoi) I bought my ticket and guide and decided which ones I would visit. I didn't get around five but did three, the Japanese covered bridge, the assembly hall of the Fujian Chinese Congregation and an old Japanese house. As a major trading hub in the South China Sea there are many influences here, it was a fascinating day.
Feeling a little peckish I stopped at a restaurant recommended in the Lonley Planet guide. A loverly Vietnamese chicken curry washed down with a beer. While sitting in the restaurant a pregnant lady came around selling fried fruit. She had some ginger and some coconut. Doing me a 'happy hour' discount she told be that the ginger was good for the tummy.
' I have big tummy, baby. You have big tummy, beer'
How very very dare you, I thought pulling my stomach in.
Depite it being 'happy hour' the change she gave me suggested it wasn't.
There were some great photo opportunities at the quay and in the fruit and veg market. I'm not sure if the old ladies in the boats and carrying the traditional bamboo baskets over their shoulders were really authentic, they were sharp enough to charge $1 for a photo though!
Late afternoon I headed back to the hotel. Although the hotel offered a 'shuttle' back, I decided to walk. Of course I got lost but a couple of Vietnamese girls on a scooter stopped seeing me looking confusingly at a map and asked me where I was going. I told them and the charmingly pointed me in the right direction.
Back at the hotel I was having a small read in my room when there was a knock on the door. It was my laundry. As I got it out of the bag I was a T-Shirt missing and one extra that wasn't mine. These ladies were obviously doing the laundry run and after delivering, one by one the doors on my floor opened and people brought stuff and wasn't theirs and enquired about stuff that was missing. Eventually in a scene that looked something like a Sunday morning car boot sale everyone was reunited with their own clothing.
Unpacking it, the clothing was still damp, suppose its because of the weather!
I am missing another pair of underpants, the fourth pair on the trip. I now have only three pair. I shall have to make an investment.
At least I shall leave South East Asia, safe in the knowledge that at least one Thai, Laotian,Singaporean and Vietnamese bloke is wearing a pair of genuine rather than fake Calvin Kleins.
The plan this evening was to go into town for dinner. The weather has turned so that plan may yet change.
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Location:Hai Bà Trưng,Hoi An,Vietnam
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