Saigon

I like Saigon much more than Hanoi, much more.
It's still busy but just not as busy. True, it doesn't have some of the character of Hanoi, but it seems a nicer place. My schedule is tight in the last city of my Vietnam tour. I have a trip on the Mekong tomorrow and then leave on the early bus to Phnom Penh at seven the following morning. I have my map planned out. The Independence Palace, The War Remnants Museum, the Cathedral of Notre Dame and the Ben Thanh Market.
I left my key at reception? Mrs Angry snarled at me, god, she has a face like a slapped arse, I really want to say something to her but don't.

I had an omelette and coffee (the best coffee I have had in Vietnam) then headed off. I took a rickshaw driven by a bloke who was at least twice my age. At times I wanted to get out and push. There is a element of the surreal when you are riding round a roundabout and there are literally thousands of bikes and numerous cars heading straight for you, honking their horns. Riding up the wide boulevards of central Ho Chi Minh City, I felt like Miss Saigon. It was all I could do to stop myself waving to the pedestrians as we passed them.

The independence or Reunification palace as it is now known stands prominent in it's gated grounds. Time has stood still here since 30 April 1975, a slightly scary thought. The striking modern architecture and the slightly eerie feeling you get as you walk through its deserted halls make Reunification Palace one of the most fascinating sights in HCMC. The building was once the symbol of the South Vietnamese government, which hundreds of thousands of Vietnamese and 58,183 Americans died trying to save.


















On the morning of 30 April 1975, the 43-hour-old government of South Vietnam sat quietly on the second floor of this grand building - then called the Independence Palace - waiting to transfer power to the Northern forces who were crashing through the wrought iron gates below. 'There is no question of you transferring power,' they were told by a Viet Cong officer. 'You cannot give up what you do not have.' The building took its current form in 1966 after it had been partially destroyed in an attack by South Vietnam leader Diem's own air force (they really hated him, it seems). Now, the building is a magnificent example of 60s architecture - airy and open, with spacious chambers and tasteful modern decorations. The building is still used for official functions. The most interesting section of the Reunification Palace is the basement - a network of tunnels and rooms, including a war room and a telecommunications room. One of the tunnels stretches all the way to Gia Long Palace, now known as the Revolutionary Museum.







































My rickshaw driver had fixed a price with me so told me he would wait outside. That was very charitable i thought, fully expecting that he would rob my eyes later.
My next stop was the War Remnants museum.
I left my rickshaw driver here and paid him off, and yes, he did rip me off. I'm pleased I didn't get out and push now!

There is no doubt that this museum shows a rather one sided view of the Vietnamese conflict. It focuses on the American and French involvement in the struggle against the North. Some of the photos are truly mind numbing, in fact, after wandering through the jail area and the first floor I decided that I had seen enough. The photographs depicting the atrocities were quite upsetting to say the least. True, they were only showing the war from the North Vietnamese side and you could be pretty sure that the contra side to the debate is just as unacceptable. It does however make you stop and think. A smiling US marine with the decapitated heads of Vietnamese in each hand hardly sounds in line with Geneva Convention!

Outside in the courtyard are displays of the instruments of war, tanks, fighter planes, helicopters including the famous chinook. There is also a display of the various ordnance that was used including the infamous 'daisy cutter' all in all it was all rather disturbing.















Outside there was a smart chap selling stuff. You do get used to being ripped off in these places with pedlars and beggars. This guy was selling books, all to do with the war. He was different in that he had no lower arms and was missing a leg and eye. He was one of the many victims of the aftermath of the war, the millions of unexploded bombs that kill and maim even today. Not just in Vietnam but also Laos which as the unenviable claim to fame as being the most bombed country in the world per capita. He had stepped on a mine when he was eight years old and was maimed for life.




















I have to confess, before coming to Vietnam I knew about the war, who didn't? But had only seen it through the tv coverage and the likes of 'apocalypse now' and '' ' ' 'Saving Private Ryan' beyond that I didn't have much idea around why and the history. I bought a book from this chap, 'Vietnam - The Ten Thousand Day War'
Leaving the war museum the heavens opened. So much so that I had to abandon the rest of my plan. Instead, I found a quite cafe and started reading what is a very interesting and informative book.

Before I knew it, the rain had stopped and it was getting dark. I had been there nearly three hours. I headed back, missing my way but eventually finding my way to the hotel. The street where I am staying seems to be the happening place. Unfortunately I have a touch of the Asian tummy and after some medical advice take a couple of antibiotics and a couple of immodium.

I want to feel ship shape for the Mekong Delta trip tomorrow so, given I had very little sleep last night I aim to skip dinner and have an early night......


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Location:Bui Vien,Ho Chi Minh City,Vietnam

And on to Saigon or HMC......

I woke up at 6am feeling a little worse for wear. Those jam jars of whatever it was are taking it's toll. I feel the proverbial bear had beaten me up and shit In my mouth. I needed to check out of the hotel at 12 o'clock and I was going to spend every minute between now and then in my pit.

At checkout time, I did feel a little better, just a little. I headed to the Oasis bar for an omelette and sunk three large pineapple juices straight after each other. The little Vietnamese waitress thought this was highly amusing. She should have seen the way I put those jam jars away last night!!!

Atfter breakfast I headed to the beach and got a lounger and there I stayed all day, snoozing, woken up occasionally by a group of raucous middle age American wankers shouting about how many kamikaze hookers they had shagged the previous night.... Nice...

The sun was going down over the mountains as I got my stuff together. A rat the size of a pony ran across my foot as I made my way off the beach. I had been speaking to a guy the previous night who had been bitten by one a few days ago and is now on a course if anti rabies injections.

An early dinner at the sailing club beach restaurant, watching the dusk fall over the south china sea and the said rat scurry backwards and forwards across the beach picking up bits of food left during the day.

As I headed back to my hotel, I reflected on the last couple of days. I quite liked Nha Trang. It hadn't been on my original list but I was pleased I had visited.

The guy who owned the hotel was a charming bloke. So helpful and friendly. I didn't need to be at the Sinh office to catch the bus till 8.00pm. I was intending to walk, it was only just over a couple of blocks away (which a robbing taxi driver had charged me 150,000 dong for when I arrived.
He wouldn't have it
' I will drive you - sit down and we can talk'
I had a very interesting hour discussing the war, what the world thought of Vietnam. He was fascinating, his father, an army officer had spent 18 years in jail after opposing the Vietcong after the French withdrawal in the North. There is a huge divide between the North and the South. The north not forgiving the south for siding with the US.
My lift, as suspected was on the back of a scooter. I have not seen the record of 6 people beaten, although it has been equalled a few times. I did see a three piece suite yesterday and a dozen crates of beer.
I was left at the Sinh bus station ready for an 8.30 departure. We left on time, I was the only non Asian aboard this time. The beds are not that comfortable but was snoozing after reading a few chapters of my e-book

( a scooter has just gone past the cafe I'm in with three trees on the back - priceless)


The roads were not too good, damaged by the recent floods so there I am, drifting on and out of sleep when, what can only be described as an explosion from the back of the bus! We pulled up and the driver and his mate got out with torches to inspect the back of the bus.
They got back in looking a little concerned, we crawled along for another few km till smoke was billowing out of the rear and an audible alarm was sounding on the dashboard. Something was clearly amiss!

Once stopped, they both undressed into their boxer shorts and taking a toolbox, a rope and some Vietnamese ingenuity set about repairing the damage.
I must have dropped off, I awoke at midnight and got off the bus, they had removed what looked like one of those huge calor gas tanks (it wasn't though) and were sat at the side of the road, in atrocious rain looking resigned to defeat. We were going nowhere!

About 2.00am another bus arrived. We all marched off ours and onto the new one, which wasn't a sleeper. According to my estimations we still had another 10 ish hours to go.
The seats on the new bus did have reclining seats but the next 10 hours were at best uncomfortable. Not helped by a woman a few seats back wailing like a banshee while throwing up into a plastic bag. Thankfully this was my last overnight transfer of this trip.
The urban area of Saigon starts miles out. It must have taken at least 90 mins to reach the centre. I was surprised by the number of catholic churches as we weaved into central district number 1. Around 30% of the population are Catholics I learned last night.

At about 11.00 we landed, this time I asked how far the hotel was from the bus station, it was just around the corner. So I walked. At the hotel I was greeted by Mrs Grumpy from Saigon (related to Mr Angry from Hanoi?).
She barked something at me which I've no idea what it was. Pushed a key at me and took my passport.
I intended to get a couple of hours shut eye before going to check out the sights. 10 minutes later a rep from the travel agent tipped up and gave me my instruction for the Mekong Delta trip tomorrow and also my bus ticket for the transfer to Phnom Phen on the 14th. One less thing to chase up. I couldn't sleep so got my stuff together . I needed some laundry doing as I now had nothing at all that was clean. Mrs Angry obliged, 10,000 dong a kilo. I had a small bet with myself that a pair of underpants would be missing when it was returned.

Breakfast next door and then a wander to the sights. The nice lady that brought my trip and bus tickets had also given me a map and highlighted the areas of interest. All walkable.
'keep hold of your money, very bad city' were her parting words.....

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Location:Bui Vien,Ho Chi Minh City,Vietnam

A day trip in Nha Trang

I had a great day today. I had booked a trip to see the sights around Nha Trang. It covered the big Buddha, an old temple dating back to the 7th Century, the oceanic institute and finally on to the beach about 15km out of town and lunch.
As usual the tour was full. All Vietnamese, although they were one family half were US Vietnamese and the other half were living in Vietnam. Kay, a Vietnamese lady but living in Washington DC was a real estate agent and quite sharp. She seemed intrigued that I was travelling alone. Our first stop was the oceanic institute, in reality it was just a shabby aquarium. A bit sad really, there were all sorts of sea creatures, some large sharks, turtles and rays, all in tanks that were far too small for them. I did hope that this wasn't the shape of things to come. Luckily it wasn't . The next stop was the Ponagar Cham Towers, these towers were built between the 7th and 12th century to honour Yang Ino Po Nagar. The local buddhists of Nha Trang uses this place for prayers and worshipping and there were hundreds of incense sticks burning in the actual temple. So much so the inside was black.



























It was in the process if being renovated and sat on a hill overlooking the harbour. The interior of the temples was quite spectacular. Unfortunately the English speaking guide had a rather unfortunate command of the English language which I think was limited to 'yes' this was the answer to every question. After the stop off at the aquarium we had picked up an Australian couple. Phil and Marie from Melbourne. Phil had worked for Mars (the confectioner not the planet) and had done exactly the same as me in that after 30 years he had called it a day in corporate life and left. He and Marie were well travelled and had even visited Matlock and Skegness. How better can it get!

In addition Phil had a Ducatti so immediately we had something in common.
After the temple we visited the big Buddha and Pagoda, it sits on the hill overlooking Nha Trang. The pagoda was founded in the late 19th century then renovated in 1940. It is located on Trai Thuy hill and is the largest pagoda in Nha Trang. Tens of thousands visit each year to see the pagoda and the 79ft tall white Buddah statue that towers above it.






Once again I got conned. Because our guide was pretty poor at keeping us educated I asked another young chap a question about the Nazi swastika that appeared on various of the temples I had visited over the last few weeks. It transpires that although it looks like a swastika it is in fact the other way around and is the Buddhist symbol for the sun (again- every day a school day!) This young chap gave me his life story, he was an orphan,had been adopted by the monks, got up at 4am every day, worked at the temple and pagoda and then went to school in the evening. Spoke four languages and lived in the temple. He then offered me 10 postcards for 200,000 dong. Even in England that would be on the steep side!
I offered 10,000 and he snapped my hand off. It transpired that no one worked at the temple. The naive traveller makes a comback!



After the culture we were going to the beach. About 30 minutes on the road we pulled into a complex on the beach that has about 200 metres of undercover seats, hammocks and deck chairs. Bai Dai beach is a stretch of white sands about 10km long. The sea was loverly and warm. After a dip I sat and chatted to Phil and Marie over a few beers. Lunch was included but if you wanted any of the various shellfish you could purchase them and have them cooked. If it's not got a backbone I'm not interested so I stuck with the fish, rice and veg. We headed back at about 3pm. A very nice tine was had by all.


Ever conscious that the travel agent had not really been on the ball so far I checked with the Hotel owner about my ticket for the night bus to Saigon tomorrow evening. He is a loverly chap, so helpful. While the hotel is basic, I would stay there again just to see his smiley face and helpful disposition. Despite his best efforts he couldn't help so I decided to walk down to the Sihn cafe booking office. They tried to convince me that I had already been given the ticket in Hoi An. I tried to convince the that I hadn't.
I had to go back to the hotel for my passport but eventually I left with a ticket for the bus. It left at 8.30pmo the following evening.
Had a great evening, started at the OZ bar then across the road to the Oasis bar, great cocktails only 35,000 dong. Great music. This really is like being in Spain .









But much cheaper. I beat my record last night and had a good meal and session for £5.81 two beers, 6 cocktails and a Vietnamese curry
Tonight may get messy.Had a delicious Vietnamese chicken node dish. The cocktails are
serrved in Jam jars and after the first one are POTENT......
















The next update may be some time....
As I sit in the Oasis bar they are playing 'you're in the army now'
There is a certain irony there. The country has been ravaged by a pointless war in our lifetime, yet, now the Vietnamese seem to have forgiven and moved on, welcoming tourists wherever they are from. Right enough, they will rob your eyes out when you get here but said that, what's the Thai's excuse. No one subjected them the the atrocities of war but they still shaft you senseless..
Far be it for me to take sides and I recognise that the Vietcong were evil bastards but all is fair in war I suppose. Except My Lai.!!
Fuck, this jam jar is potent, I'm becoming philosophical and that just won't do.... Travel is such an education. You see the other side first hand. Of course there is propaganda but at least having seen both stories you can make you're own mind up. I do like this country, I like it a lot.
Xx
I stagger back to my hotel at midnight. Pissed as the proverbial newt. That will never do. Or maybe it will.

Photos will come later. Can't be assed at the moment. Far too busy!!!

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Location:1/16 Tran Quang Khai,Nha Trang,Vietnam

Nha Trang

My first day in Nha Trang has been leisurely.
After getting allocated my room, a much needed shower and a small snooze I walked down to the esplanade for a stroll on the beach. The sun was out, the weekend locals were enjoying the sea. I rolled up my trousers, took off my flip flops and wandered down the waters edge reflectting on the trip so far. I like Vietnam, I like it a lot. My only concern is that the experience has been too short. I really don't feel that I have seen the real country or the real people. I make a pact with myself that I will return and do it a different way.


While a perfectly nice place Nha Trang is without doubt the Costa Del Vietnam. Busy with tourists, pedlars, high raised hotel blocks and a general feel of development and catering for the holiday maker. Maybe I'm being pretentious but I don't feel like a holiday maker, I'm a backpacker exploring!

As I made my way off the beach I stopped off for a drink and a bite to eat at the 'boat club' an upmarket seafront bar and restaurant. As I put my flip flops in it dawned on me that save a couple of days trekking in the north of Thailand I hadn't actually worn shoes for over a month now.

I had Vietnamese chicken samosas, yummy. The view out over the south china sea and the eight islands was beautiful. Tomorrow I had already organised a tour to the sights around the city so I'm going to be a holiday maker, just for the day.

There was a place on the beach front called the Louisiana Brewhouse which, as the name suggests brew beer. It is a very stylish place, there is a pool and sun loungers that you can use if you are eating or drinking there.
I tried a pint of the local brew, very pleasing and sat in the sunshine for an hour.









Walking back to the hotel in then late afternoon I decided to cross the busy main road. There are quite a few pedestrian crossings which appear to serve absolutely no purpose whatsoever, other than to give the motorists and motorcyclists something to focus on as they try to run you over. Each time you cross the road you take your life in your hands.

Almost every step there is someone wanting to sell you something, take you on the back of their motorbike of find some way to get you to part with your Dongs. I must look like some sort of retard smiling and saying 'no thank you'
'where are you from' was invariably the response. 'UK, Chesterfield, it's in the middle' I shouted over my shoulder.

Passing a massage and hair salon I decided that I was beginning to look like action man with eagle eyes again and could probably do with a trim of the hair. Cheap again, included in the price is a head massage, not as good as the ones I had in Borneo but nice all the same. It takes the stress of the day away and this backpacking lark is very stressful. ;-). This particular establishment had an added bonus. The bed you laid on to have the hair wash and head massage had some vibrating functionality and fair made me jump when it kicked off. Pleasant it was as it moved up and down my body. Not as good as the real thing though!

In the evening the place really comes alive and the name costa del Vietnam is truly deserved. Walking into town I collected more flyers than you could shake a stick at. A colleague at BT has a partner who's aunt has a Thai restaurant in the town so I was going to search it out. I didn't get that far when the rain came so took refuge in the 'why not' bar and restaurant. Had a great Vietnamese chicken curry and the drinks were two for one!!
Tomorrow I have to be at the tour office for 8.30 so I intend to have a steady night, despite the fact it is Saturday.!




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Location:Hung Vuong,Nha Trang,Vietnam

Hoi An to Nha Trang

My last day in Hoi An was leisurely. The wine I had drunk the previous evening, pleasant as it was, and inducing a good nights sleep had it's after effects and I didn't stir till gone 10.00. That is a real lie in on this trip.
Brunch at ' Now and Then' a stroll around town and sitting in front of the river reading up on my next destination. You get used to the various hawkers stopping by trying to sell anything from postcards, trips to Marble mountain and the like. A chap rode up on a rather nice Honda and sat by me. Before he had said a word I had given a smile and a 'no thank you'

'It's OK, we can just talk. For the next hour we chatted, Nyun was a Vietnamese national and ran a company called ' Easy Riders'
Basically you hired him at $50 a day and he took you out. Trips could be one day to 10 days. Included lodgings and food at basic guest houses. He had with him a ' brag book ' which had citations from people who had travelled with him. I was most impressive. All of the valedictions said that was a great opportunity to see the real Vietnam. Off the beaten track. I think If I hadn't been on such a tight schedule I might well have taken him up and done a trip.
One of the trips visited the site of the infamous My Lai massacre.
I had reading about it earlier in the day on the Internet and it was truly horrific.

My Lai was the site of a massacre of hundreds of civilians during the Vietnam War. Disclosure of the incident months after its occurrence raised questions about the honesty of the military and the U.S. government regarding their actions in Vietnam. It also seemed to call into question what the United States was doing in Vietnam in the first place.

The village of My Lai is located in Quang Ngai Province in northeast South Vietnam. The province was regarded as a Vietcong stronghold and had been targeted by the U.S. Army in several search-and-destroy operations. One of those operations, dubbed Task Force Oregon, began in the spring of 1967. In September the 23rd Division, also known as the Americal Division, was deployed to assist in the operation. The Americal consisted of three brigades; the 11th, the 196th and the 198th. Charlie Company, 11th Brigade, 23rd Division, commanded by Captain Ernest Medina, was part of the relief effort. Lieutenant William Calley commanded Charlie Company's 1st Platoon.

Charlie Company saw no direct action against the Vietcong during the early stages of its deployment. However, it suffered significant casualties as a result of ambushes and booby traps. The Vietcong used a number of devices, including punji-pits containing sharpened bamboo stakes dug along a trail and covered with dirt and toe poppers (bullets buried straight up with its firing pin on a bamboo stub), poised to detonate when a soldier stepped on it. These attacks offered Charlie Company no opportunity to retaliate as the Vietcong managed to disappear either into the jungle or hide among the local population. The attacks may have contributed to the growing frustration and anger within Charlie Company, which may have helped to set the stage for the events at My Lai.

On the morning of March 16, 1968, Charlie Company was sent into My Lai to sweep the village and root out suspected Vietcong who might have been hiding there. First Platoon under Lt. Calley's command reached the village first. The remaining platoons stayed behind to support Calley. Charlie Company's commander, Captain Medina, was also present to direct operations. The sweep was also supported by helicopter gun-ships. When Calley's platoon found no enemy soldiers, he ordered that the civilians be rounded up and brought to the center of the village. At this time the order was given to open fire. Between 400 to 500 civilians were shot and killed by Calley's platoon. Calley himself was said to have killed a number of villagers by ordering them into a ditch and shooting them. The situation might have gotten worse if one of the helicopter gun-ships had not intervened. The pilot, Hugh Thompson, landed between Calley's men and the surviving villagers. While the door gunner kept his machine gun at the ready, Thompson managed to pull a few of the villagers to safety. He also radioed his section leader about what he saw, and eventually Charlie Company was told to order Calley and 1st Platoon out of the village.

It took nearly two years for the news of My Lai to reach U.S. officials. The army had tried to cover up the incident by referring to it as a combat operation in which twenty civilians had accidentally been killed. Ron Riden-hour, a Vietnam veteran who had heard about the massacre from friends who were in Charlie Company, wrote to his congressman about My Lai, setting a full-scale investigation into motion. My Lai received further attention when journalist Seymour Hersh published an article detailing his conversations with Ridenhour.

William Calley, Ernest Medina, and twenty-three officers and enlisted men were indicted for their actions at My Lai. Only Calley, Medina, and four other persons were ever court-martialed. Of those, there was only enough evidence to convict Calley of murder, and in 1971 he was sentenced to life in prison. His sentence was later reduced, first to twenty and then to ten years. In 1974 he was paroled and separated from the army with a dishonorable discharge. At last report he was living in Georgia and working in the insurance business.

The events at My Lai heaped more negative publicity on a war that in 1971 was continuing to lose public support. Earlier that year the Vietnam Veterans Against the War organization, led by John Kerry, later a Democratic senator from Massachusetts, sponsored hearings in Detroit where veterans testified they had participated in or heard of other atrocities. In April, shortly after Calley's conviction, the VVAW staged five days of demonstrations in Washington, D.C. Many veterans went to the steps of the Capitol and returned their medals. To opponents of the conflict, My Lai served to underscore their belief that the war was not only wrong, but now criminal, as it seemed that the United States was targeting innocent civilians as well as enemy troops. Other critics wondered if there were more events like My Lai waiting to be uncovered. Supporters of the war argued that Calley and the others convicted for their roles at My Lai were scapegoats, forced to pay the price for a war gone bad. They had only been following orders; those truly responsible had yet to face justice.

My Lai and the deception around it clearly contributed to the government's credibility gap and drove support for the war to an all-time low. That same year the New York Times began publishing secret documents outlining the U.S. role in Vietnam. The Pentagon Papers, as they came to be known, revealed further coverups and deceptions and accelerated demands that American forces be brought home.

That was just one of the places he would escort you too

If I do decide to come back to Vietnam I will look this guy up and maybe do a trip. Not only was he very informative, he was a really nice chap.

I'm sure I have only touched the tip of the iceberg with central Vietnam. There is so much to see and do and time is the only barrier.

I was leaving Hoi An at 6.00pm on the night bus for the 11 hour trip. As it pulled up outside the hotel and I said my goodbyes to the staff it was with a sense of regret. This small town had been a charming break. If I had only visited Hanoi in Vietnam I would have left the country with mixed feelings. After three days in Hoi An I really loved the place. I'm not sure I would rush back to Hanoi but Vietnam is certainly on my list of favourite places.

I should have travelled on the sleeper bus from Hanoi to Hoi An but, due ton the floods had flown. Consequently I had no idea what to expect. I was pleasantly surprised. Rather than seats the bus had beds. A row down each side and a row in the middle. It was a bit cramped but looked clean. I was given a plastic bag as I got on the bus. No shoes and climbed in my nest for the next 11 hours. I was the first on the bus but had already been allocated a bed.

The next was the Sinh Cafe tourist office to pick the rest of the passengers up. Most were Asian with a couple of Danes and a couple of Aussies from Tazmania. The set up does not lend itself to getting to know folk like the train does. As we sped down the highway to Ngh Trang I drifted in and out of sleep. Those little snoozes were punctuated by farting snoring and various the noises from my travel companions.

We stopped off for 15 minutes at about 2.30 am then were back on our way. I suspect the horizontal position with the eyes shut is the best way to travel by road as you have no idea what is going on. Despite the late hour and the relative lack of traffic the driver seemed to quickly develop an affinity with his horn...

At 6.00am we were driving into the city of Ngh Trang. It was hugely different to Hoi An. It is the 'gold coast' holiday destination of Vietnam. There was a lot of activity despite the early hour. thousands were on the esplanade, and on the beach doing their daily constitution of exercise. It was an amazing sight, jogging, swimming, cycling, aerobics even playing badminton.

We pulled up at the bus station and I took a quick taxi ride to my hotel. At reception I was greeted with a 'we don't have a booking for you' rather than get on the phone myself I gave the receptionist the contact number of the Vietnam name I had, she rung them and sorted it out. I was staying at a hotel just across the road. As it was so early I left my main backpack there and walked down to the beach to watch the sun coming up then read a few chapters of the IBook I had downloaded the previous evening. The second book of Stephen Fry's autobiography. I sat on the beach reading until the battery on my iPad was flat..

I arrived back at the hotel at around 9.30 after grabbing a bit of breakfast at the cafe across the road. I was served by a charming vietnamese girl who, as I was paying said that she wanted to speak with me as she was studying languages at university but didn't want to disturb me as I was reading....
I said I would go back to speak to her at midday and she could tell me the best tour to do tomorrow as I am not here very long.


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Location:Hung Vuong,Nha Trang,Vietnam

Day two in Hoi An

The rain abated about 7.00pm so I headed off into town to see what the night life of Hoi An was like. When I arrived it was very quiet, the shops were all open but it looked like the torrential rain earlier had put people off.
I stumbled across a bar called ' Before and Now' . It was featured in the lonely Planet guide. I got a seat on the street and ordered a drink. It was happy hour all night. It had great music. The walls were plastered in pop art portraits of everyone from Marx to Marilyn Munroe, plus Bono as superman.












I had a great evening reading my guide and watching the world go by. As it got later the bar started to fill. The noodles I had were delicious. At about 10.00pm and after five beers I was a bit squiffy so headed up the road to grab a cab. They are on a meter here so the likelihood of getting stuffed are much less. 10 minutes later I was collecting my key. The whole evening had cost £8.00. My type of night!
I was surprised when I was handed my bus ticket for the sleeper bus to Nha Trang on Friday. It it does actually depart.


The map on the web suggests that the flooding is also affecting Nha Trang. No point in worrying about it now. It is at least 48 hours away and I'm sure I could find an alternative way if the worst came to the worst. I had decided if it goes to certainly try the sleeper bus for this leg of the journey.
I may then try and get a train from Nha Trang to Saigon so I have experienced all modes of transport in Vietnam. Although I have already paid for the bus ticket it was only peanuts.
Both the next two legs are sleeper buses.

I had a bit of a late lie on Thursday. Partly because I was rather jaded from my night of excess. A no alcohol day today I think.
I had not really got a plan for the day. I would head into the old town, buy another ticket for five attractions ( I had lost the one I got yesterday!) I also needed to change some money. I had about £80 in english money and thought I might as well use that. It would probably last me till I get to Saigon and will save me using the ATM which I have a bit of a distrust of ( unsubstantiated at the moment). I would also have some breakfast In town and use the walk to blow away the cobwebs.

The receptionist at the hotel is a loverly girl, albeit a bit cheeky. As I was leaving my key she asked me if I wanted a lift into town. I said I would walk. She gave me a card for a tailors and made me promise I would go and have a look at some stage today.

I have seen some strange things on the back of motor scooters in this trip. Baskets of chickens, sheets of glass, piles of fishing baskets, a family of 6 people. Today I saw a girl with a double bed strapped to the back!

There is a road on the way into town that is pack with massage parlours. As you walk by you are bombarded by girls shouting you to go into their particular establishment. I said to one particular girl I would be walking back later.

Breakfast by the river. Liptons tea (every bit as ghastly as the coffee) bread, omelette and what purported to be fresh orange juice but wasn't.

I had another go at taking the photos of the two old dears selling fruit on the bridge (cost me a dollar).














After a walk round town I wandered towards the old market and took a tourist boat down the river. Hoi An is on an estuary, the trip took me down the estuary and into the South China Sea. Some of the beaches were loverly. One in particular stretches the 30km all the way to Danang.
There were locals out fishing on the river. Quite a skill casting out a circular net and each time it was retrieved it was full of fish.









































The trip lasted a couple of hours. Remembering my promise to the receptionist I did stop buy the tailors and ordered a pair of shorts. The ones I had were quite heavy and given it would be hitting up and becoming humid the further south I went I thought it would be good to invest. I did a good bit of bartering and got a deal.
Lunch time.... Here and now, a couple of beers and a very healthy chicken salad. (even though it is a no alcohol day)
Most of the bars have free Wi Fi in Hoi An. While I was in Hanoi I had withdrawn 3 million Dong (about £100) when the receipt came out it suggested that I had withdrawn 8 million Dong. I checked my balance on the iPad and was relieved to see that the debit was in fact 3 rather than 8 million.
Deciding to walk back to the hotel I was again doing the 'massage run' one of the girls remembered me and shouted.
' you said later'
I relented, she agreed to do a $15 for $10.
As I was taking my clothes of she said
' You are a very handsome man' here we go I thought , I bet you say that to all the boys.
Despite a few 'close rubs' there was no 'hanky panicky and one hour later I emerged relaxed.
Before I left I gave her five dollars. You have to pay the main man and I doubt the girl would see a tip.
She was delighted, flung her arms around me and gave me a hug and a kiss.
' You will come back tomorrow and ask for me'
They never stop!!!!

Next to the massage parlours was a little bar, thirsty after the massage I stopped off for a drink and got chatting to a Irish guy from Dalkey, near Dublin. He was travelling alone and had come down from Hanoi on the train the day before I left. He had got caught in the floods and the journey had taken 36 hours. I'm really pleased I took the plane although in reality I had no option as by the time I left the bus and train services had been cancelled.

He has been to Bangkok, we got chatting about the con men. He hadn't been conned. He then went on to tell me what he had paid for trips both here, Hanoi and Bangkok. He had been and was continuing to be conned. They were having his eyes. I didn't say anything though, it may have been upsetting for him. He was happy with what he was paying and that is the main thing. After an hour we were joined, uninvited by a brash Aussie. He had been here five weeks and what he hadn't done wasn't worth doing. Not sure if he was talking shit but told us he had, in jest, told a lady working at the hotel he would marry her. The next day she turned up wearing a wedding dress.

Back at the hotel I changed, got on the back of the hotel scooter and went into town for dinner. I need to cut down on the beer or I would be in the running for a Buddah look-a-like. I ate at a Lonely Planet recommended restaurant. Pork ribs in honey and lemongrass sauce. I treated myself to a bottle of Vietnamese wine. Nice it was too. Across the road was the equivalent of our 'pinning the tail on the Donkey. You were blindfolded, given a bamboo stick and had to hit and smash a pot hanging on a rope. It kept me entertained over dinner.

I was back in my hotel and bed for 10pm. It had been a long day and the 3/4 of a bottle of Red helped me sleep like a baby.


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Location:Hai Bà Trưng,Hoi An,Vietnam

Day one in Hoi An

I woke early after a great nights sleep.
Walking out onto the balcony about 10 kids looked out of a window opposite, curious. I waved and got 10 beaming smiles and waves back.













I have a nice feeling about this place!
The ancient town of Hoi An, 30 km south of Danang, lies on the banks of the Thu Bon River. Occupied by early western traders, Hoi An was one of the major trading centers of Southeast Asia in the 16th century.
Hoi An has a distinct Chinese atmosphere with low, tile-roofed houses and narrow streets; the original structure of some of these streets still remains almost intact. All the houses were made of rare wood, decorated with lacquered boards and panels engraved with Chinese characters. Pillars were also carved with ornamental designs.
In the light of day my initial thoughts about the hotel are confirmed . It really is a nice place. Breakfast of boiled eggs and coffee - the coffee in Vietnam is pretty ghastly, if you ask for milk it comes with sickly sweet condensed milk. It's a bit like sludge. The plans for the day are to find a laundry, I am on my last pair of underpants and my shorts could stand up on their own....
I also have no T- shirts left. I have since been told the ones I bought in Chiang Mai are nightshirts.. No one will know!
Looking on the map, it is only a short walk into the old town.

The receptionist was very helpful, they have a laundry and the can do my washing, $1 per kilo. Deal done, the also have a shuttle that takes you into town when ever you want and will also bring you back again. Ding Dong!
A guy on reception asked where I was from, the South East Asia radar had told me that nearly always, when asked by a local, it is a precursor to getting something from you.

' England'
' London ?'
' No, Chesterfield, in the middle '
' Oh, is it cold there ?
' It will be getting cold '
' How cold? '
' Sometimes below zero '
' You will need a winter coat, I know a very good tailor'

' Very good' I said, ' Very good'
We laughed and I went upstairs to get my laundry.

I deposited my washing at reception. Shuttle to me suggests bus, no, it was a moped. I donned my hard hat, jumped on the back and was on my way. Of course, there is a catch, the drop off was the drivers auntie who has a tailors on the high street.....
I have got quite adept at saying no in the last few weeks, always with a smile.





















Hoi An is quite famous for it's tailors, they are about every second shop.
The old town is quite charming, a little touristy but charming all the same. Down to the quayside by the river are lots of art shops, tailors, jewellers and cafes and restaurants. It is a foodies paradise. Quite a few of the restaurants actually run Vietnamese cooking classes. Full day or half day including going to the market to buy your own fresh produce. I may even give it a go.


















As an UNESCO world heritage site Hoi An has a long history, the town offers a $5 ticket where you can visit five of the 18 interesting places. Really good value.
































































After a wander around, a glass of fresh pineapple juice ( it was quite humid. Much more so than Hanoi) I bought my ticket and guide and decided which ones I would visit. I didn't get around five but did three, the Japanese covered bridge, the assembly hall of the Fujian Chinese Congregation and an old Japanese house. As a major trading hub in the South China Sea there are many influences here, it was a fascinating day.

Feeling a little peckish I stopped at a restaurant recommended in the Lonley Planet guide. A loverly Vietnamese chicken curry washed down with a beer. While sitting in the restaurant a pregnant lady came around selling fried fruit. She had some ginger and some coconut. Doing me a 'happy hour' discount she told be that the ginger was good for the tummy.











' I have big tummy, baby. You have big tummy, beer'

How very very dare you, I thought pulling my stomach in.
Depite it being 'happy hour' the change she gave me suggested it wasn't.









There were some great photo opportunities at the quay and in the fruit and veg market. I'm not sure if the old ladies in the boats and carrying the traditional bamboo baskets over their shoulders were really authentic, they were sharp enough to charge $1 for a photo though!









Late afternoon I headed back to the hotel. Although the hotel offered a 'shuttle' back, I decided to walk. Of course I got lost but a couple of Vietnamese girls on a scooter stopped seeing me looking confusingly at a map and asked me where I was going. I told them and the charmingly pointed me in the right direction.

Back at the hotel I was having a small read in my room when there was a knock on the door. It was my laundry. As I got it out of the bag I was a T-Shirt missing and one extra that wasn't mine. These ladies were obviously doing the laundry run and after delivering, one by one the doors on my floor opened and people brought stuff and wasn't theirs and enquired about stuff that was missing. Eventually in a scene that looked something like a Sunday morning car boot sale everyone was reunited with their own clothing.

Unpacking it, the clothing was still damp, suppose its because of the weather!
I am missing another pair of underpants, the fourth pair on the trip. I now have only three pair. I shall have to make an investment.
At least I shall leave South East Asia, safe in the knowledge that at least one Thai, Laotian,Singaporean and Vietnamese bloke is wearing a pair of genuine rather than fake Calvin Kleins.

The plan this evening was to go into town for dinner. The weather has turned so that plan may yet change.

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Location:Hai Bà Trưng,Hoi An,Vietnam