All I have done today is wander up and down the ghat's, stopping from time to time. It was very relaxing. I still can't get my head round the number of buffalos, cows and goats there are wandering around. They do look well though. Well fed and constantly getting a pat on the head by passing Hindus.
I had breakfast early, it's amazing how early things start here. There was lots going on. Most of it by the side of the river. With the monsoon just recently over the river is quite low. Technically you should be able to walk right along the riverside from Assi Ghat to the most southerly Raj Ghat. I say technically because the river gets quite high during monsoon and brings with it silt and debris from the river. At some points it is about 30ft high. Obviously quite a lot of work has already been done but at two points the work is still going on to get rid of the silt. This involve es sucking water from a pump and power jetting the silt back into the river. It is fascinating watching it. Even the highest build up is moving at a rate. Kids in charge of the high power hoses are lethal. I saw at least a couple of incidents where they completely drenched a passer by. In the debris are remains of people. The chappie who owned one of the burning ghats has told be that before the remains are pushed into the river, a piece of body is put in an urn and then tossed in the river. The were literally hundreds of urns mixed in within the silt. Besides that there was also the clothes that covered the bodies. As I walked past the burning ghat this morning there were about 10 cremations going on. A fat leg was poking out of one fire. At the side of the ghat were a number of bodies waiting to be put on the log pyre.
I sat at Assi ghat for an hour just watching what was going on. A cow wandered up the steps (they are pretty agile) one of the traders on the steps had a load of Hindu stuff and tried to shoo the cow away. The cow promptly turned around and pissed all over his stuff. Brilliant!!
By the way, on the way back to the hotel I spotted my washing. It was hanging in the street! I do suspect it's been washed in the Ganges. Will that bring me good luck ? I can't wait to see the colour of the white shirt.....
In actual fact the clothing came back quite clean, certainly the White shirt was still white.
I liked Varanasi, the touts were not as annoying as many other places, they did take no for an answer, which was a change. The food was a but rubbish in the old town. Pretty much always veg although I did fine a nice Nepali cafe which did chilli chicken and chicken pizza. I found a new drink. Half the price of a 'sprite' fresh lemon and soda. Served with sugar cane syrup. Very refreshing.
The place that I had pizza the first night was very good although I did have a fall out with the waiter when I dared to ask for some onion on my brochette. Without looking at me he said no, when I asked why he said it was not in the recipe. I thought fuck you. I would have eaten there every day but if he couldn't be assed to think about his customers he could fuck right off. It's a pity actually. Even without the onion the brochette was very tasty. The apple pie and ice cream was good too.
Five days was enough time in Varanasi. I had a good time. It is a very interesting and colourful place, great to watch the world go by. What will I remember? The number of people who piss in the street, the futile sweeping of the ghats and small lanes, the number of cows and goats wandering around without a care. The impressive ceremony and the sheer number of temples everywhere. There do appear to be an awful lot of westerners who want to be indian though.
Indeed, a fascinating city.
I've decided, there is just something about the atmosphere in India. There seems to be this haze here, Delhi, Agra..... It's like the day after bonfire night, every day. Maybe in Goa it will be different.
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Location:Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India
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